Top Death Valley Treks
TOP TERRITORIAL TREKS
Summing up and evaluating Death Valley’s backroads and trails
IS IT POSSIBLE TO AGREE ON THE BEST LOCALES TO VISIT?
So, if I were to focus on my preferred wild places in the Death Valley region, and attempt to name the greatest trek of the entire territory, what would be my overall recommendation? Listing favorites is a tall order, especially for one such as myself who finds comfort in the outback, regardless of where it’s located. As soon as I make a list, someone may imagine I don’t care for the other places, which would be inaccurate. Some stand out as preferred, and some stand out as once is enough.
Oh, but you ask … how can any locale achieve ‘once is enough’ status if you love all backcountry everywhere? Am I not being hypocritical? Actually, no, and I’ll tell you why. With so much to see (after all, Death Valley is only one luring facet of this western extravaganza), there will always be those destinations that we all only see once before we move on to new sights. Some just stand out as more fun and positively memorable! So what has been the most fun and positively memorable for me out here? Hmm, let me think a spell here … give me a few moments of meandering philosophical monologue before I get to the point. I’ll provide my opinions in a little bit.
How can one ever see it all? Suppose a potential DVNP visitor approached me and asked, ‘With only one day available for me to see Death Valley National Park – where should I go?’ After realizing the absolute futility of accomplishing any meaningful natural interactions with this grand wild territory within such an insufficient time span, and recommending counseling for recreational time-management issues, I might propose that the person first do some homework and become immersed in a few documentary videos of this land, for, as you well know at this point, to acquire even a modicum of understanding of what the Death Valley territory really is takes, at minimum, a few days. And even then, it will be only a very cursory examination and experience.
For a region roughly the size of Connecticut State, ample time allotment is essential, and foreknowledge certainly will assist. At least if a traveler is armed with a token understanding of Death Valley’s main areas and the gems of nature contained herein, then that one-day visit can be directed towards that which is of most personal interest. In such an interval of time however, the visitor may only come away with a thought that this Park is one-dimensional, and that notion may likely be spelled ‘hot salty wasteland’ since many media representations focus on Badwater in Summer – they know the extremes will captivate loads of viewers.
With a few documentaries of Death Valley in my personal collection at home, I recognize that the flavor of each imparts a different taste, and if people only view one, they may come away with skewed ideas. One public television episode, for example, tends to fuel the traditional belief that few return alive, as music and narration of foreboding tone keep the viewer enthralled. And while it is clearly a favorite video of mine, I would not suggest it to a novice sightseer, lest they never come out here in person at all. Another documentary, produced by a private company, gives a broader representation of the immense diversity that exists here, and with an uplifting musical score and similar narrative tone, welcomes a newcomer. Further, the time of year will have a profound impact on what someone thinks – don’t come to Badwater in July (go to Hunter Mountain instead)! And likewise, don’t go to Hunter Mountain in January (go to Badwater).
No doubt that we all suffer from restrictions, for as our societies become more technologically advanced, and earning a buck becomes all the more competitive, making time for seeing this natural world is precious, and then only parts of it can be visited. National Park visitor counts are likely pretty accurate of favorite destinations in America, but my goal here is not to pit one Park against another, nor advocate one type of terrain over a dissimilar one. I love all kinds of terra firma, each in its own way, and find that the contrasts among them all serve to enhance each of their individual charms and lures.
My objective here is to narrow down the areas in which I have found most personal enjoyment, with the proviso that my interpretations may not be the same as yours. The factors by which we each determine the merits of what leads to a positively memorable time may differ. What I will do here is to tell you a few of my all-time favorite areas, and on what I base that feeling. It’s all totally subjective, to be sure, but since I am queried in this regard from time to time by website visitors, I feel obligated to tender my humble outlook. I realize that folks are always short on time, and seek opinions of how to best utilize it during their visits. Consequently, take this chatter for whatever it’s worth to you.
If a person really did have only one day in which to visit this territory (perhaps on the way to somewhere else), about the best that could possibly be hoped for is to use paved roads to see the most common tourist attractions. While this will be far from all-encompassing regarding a thorough knowledge of the Park, it will be a start, albeit an extremely minimal one. Just to drive on asphalt from Ubehebe Crater to Ashford Mill, and seeing all the sights that pop up in between in the main valley, will certainly soak up more time than a single day if this time-strapped human stops at each turnout, visits the museum, reads every placard, and takes each hike.
To keep the suspense building, rather than mentioning my preferred settings first, let’s begin with a few of the wild places that I would tend to rank in the category of: Is it worth another visit? It seems strange to do this because one of my most dramatic and positive encounters with the natural world occurred in one such locale, so why not return again? Primarily, it can be summed up in a word – roadbed. If the primitive roadway into a particular place is essentially not too pleasant, the experience may not be categorized among the best. What can lead to such a thought? For me, it comes down to mile after unrelenting mile of very rocky going, the kind of driving where you think that no nut and bolt on your BEV will be tight after this trip. The kind of road that leaves you waiting for your rig to fall apart in pieces as you drive. The kind of trail that keeps your chiropractor happy to re-align your spine again once you get back home.
Where are these places? Well, the one I just alluded to is in the eastern Panamint Range, and is similar to the other class 2-3 roads (see road ratings page) that all traverse and ascend huge alluvial fans to access the canyons. Of these four canyons (from north to south: Trail, Hanaupah, Johnson, and Galena), my experience has shown Hanaupah to be the rockiest and most problematic once in the canyon itself. Johnson Canyon provides marvelous nature interaction at its terminus with abundant water, yet is a bumpy ride also, but not as severe. Trail Canyon is moderately unpleasant too, and Galena is perhaps the easiest of the group (also the shortest). They will all provide similar thoughts in your head as you drive up them. You may even jump to the conclusion after the first one that if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all (not really the case, but your chattering teeth may tell you so).
The road up Warm Spring Canyon to Butte Valley is south of these four, yet overall, is somewhat more enjoyable (perhaps because you know it goes through to the Panamint Valley, passes Striped Butte, which is a notable landmark, and it is a canyon that leads to a number of other great roads and destinations). Since it is a long road with new discoveries abounding, your opinion may be different. Plus, much of this road is softer two-track roadbed, which adds to a feeling of having more fun.
Therefore, if that theoretical one-day visitor asked me what to avoid, I might suggest the eastern Panamint canyons. Not because I dislike them, but rather because there are easier and more accessible places that are considerably more fun to drive … and since driving is essential out here, even for dedicated hikers, it must be taken into account. Technically, Cottonwood and Marble Canyons are in the eastern Panamint Range, although most folks would think the Cottonwood Mountains instead, which are a portion of the northern Panamints. And yes, driving up these two canyons may likewise impart a feeling that your vehicle is being rattled to death. Don’t forget that Lemoigne Canyon is tucked in there too, just south of Cottonwood Canyon, and while it is a short drive from the pavement to the end of the legal road, it is one of slow going, kind of crossways over the alluvial fan. This is not a favored canyon to visit for most folks.
But for the fanatical enthusiast like me, at least one visit to everywhere is in order at one time or another. Sometimes the road difficulty is what keeps most backroad explorers out of an area, so this ‘rock factor’ can be a positive thing, depending on how you view it.
The Lippencott road (a conduit from The Racetrack to the Saline Valley) is reserved for people with a lot of backroad savvy, a top-notch rig with emergency supplies, and an overabundance of time to explore. It too, is rocky and challenging, and not for the faint of heart or casual visitor out for a Sunday drive. Its status can be class 1-4, so don’t take it lightly.
Moving farther north to a road that snakes between the Saline Range and the Last Chance Range, rocks are the name of the game – literally uncountable millions of them. However, for me, the prize is a wild place that few will ever visit, and roads once there that are pure joy to drive. I am speaking of the road from Saline Warm Springs to Steel Pass, about twenty-five miles of exceptionally slow going. Once at the top however, it is easy, secluded, and immensely pleasurable (getting to the top from either direction is the hard part). To get on to the Eureka Sand Dunes National Natural Landmark from here does require some questionable class-4 road in Dedeckera Canyon, only for the super adventurous and well-equipped, but then after that, it is sandy and soft on your exhausted bag of bones.
I would have to say that those are the main areas that the average-ability backcountry explorer might wish to consider avoiding if on a tight schedule, lacking in experience, or seeking the most pleasurable drive. Of course, don’t forget that all the roads we are discussing here are dirt backroads that require differing degrees of driving ability, so always refer to the safari chronicles covering my experiences on a particular road, along with the road rating guide, before contemplating actually going to any of these secret spots yourself.
Whoops! I forgot one. The Hole in the Wall road may be one to think twice about. Sure, it’s close to Furnace Creek like Echo Canyon, but unlike Echo, the start of the Hole in the Wall road is often difficult to find because it runs across the wash, and is sometimes not there. Even when the road is washed out at the highway, you can look over in the distance and see the gigantic slit in the cliffs, but it’s down right frustrating not being able to get there. If you do find the entrance off Highway 190, you’ll eventually realize that the road is quite a bit rockier and jarring than the Echo Canyon road not far north. I enjoy this drive, yet may recommend the time crunched visitor to try others instead.
Wow, that was a quick trip from southern DVNP to the northern reaches! How about all that stuff in between? Yup, you’re correct, there’s a lot in here, so let’s discuss it for a bit. And please understand that I will not be mentioning every single road that exists out here, rather trying to hit on the ones that are commonly known and considered for a weekend trip.
Somewhere between a road that most would consider agonizing, and one that would be deemed as a barrel of fun, are those that are not so easily definable. For example, the road from Ubehebe Crater to The Racetrack is a relatively easy class 1-2 that scads of folks drive each year in their passenger cars, yet the twenty-six mile distance and washboards make it an experience that must be endured for the average explorer. The Saline Valley road is similar in many respects, yet is a road that is popular due to the natural hot springs that are found mid-valley.
If you want to try a road that skirts the western edge of Death Valley’s salt flat, the West Side road will do it for you, and this road is an unproblematic class-1. Heck, most of it is smoother than the paved roads in good weather. This is also the road that you would use to access those rocky and rugged eastern Panamint canyons that I spoke of earlier. For our hypothetical one-day visitor who wants to leave pavement, the West Side road would be a thirty-five mile jaunt that gives a more real sense of adventure than the average tourist might experience. This road will also allow you to visit several historic roadside spots along the way, all well-signed by the National Park Service.
Another road that I’d classify in this mid-range category is the Harry Wade road, about thirty-two miles of easy class-1 touring, and even a river crossing! Of course, the river crossing is the Amargosa, and it’s usually underground or dry, which presents no serious obstacle even for passenger cars. The Park visitor who wants to do the north-south drive routine, but use dirt more than pavement, could drive the West Side road and then connect up to the Harry Wade road, for nearly seventy miles of easy dirt travel. Please remember though, that all this talk assumes dry weather, and that these roads are subject to dramatic change if they get really wet! Don’t try wet roads.
For the more daring than average motorist, another north-south dirt route to consider is the easy class 1-2 Greenwater Valley road that connects Highway 190, south of Furnace Creek, to Highway 178, not far from Shoshone. On this road, you can even take a side trip up to the very popular Dante’s View, and see Death Valley proper like never before! Also, the Deadman Pass road is accessed from the southern portion of the Greenwater Valley, but it rises to class-2 status in parts, with perhaps an easy class-3 depending on the weather. Stay on the Greenwater Valley road though, and it is generally a snap.
While in the Greenwater Valley, a fun side trip is into Gold Valley, which will require a high clearance BEV due to its class-3 areas. This is a fun road though, and makes for one of those memorable explorations into the remote natural world if you have the ability to drive it. I recommend it if you are looking for day-trips out of Furnace Creek and have two vehicles on the trip.
Aguereberry Point and Skidoo are two destinations that are found at the ends of relatively easy graded roads, and are very popular for folks with a sense of adventure. Usually they are class 1-2 affairs and present no major problem for a careful traveler. Passenger cars should be okay in good weather, but be careful. And to get to these roads, you’ll drive a pleasant paved route through Emigrant Canyon and/or Wildrose Canyon. Aguereberry Point will provide stellar views of Death Valley from the side opposite of Dante’s View, and it’s quite a bit higher in elevation also. Wildrose has a few short dirt areas, but 2wd cars are still okay. Stay out if it’s raining (which is good advice for any Death Valley territorial roads). If you are in Wildrose Canyon, you might as well go see the Charcoal Kilns while you’re at it.
Now, comes the big drive that all DVNP visitors dream of doing, and is even a favorite of mine. Titus Canyon is representative of many aspects of Death Valley’s terrain, and will prove a fun and memorable locale for practically anyone. Keep in mind however, that this road is closed by the Park Service after heavy rains, so check with a Ranger before driving out to Nevada where you have to enter the one-way road trip. You also must not be terribly unnerved by a steep switchback section that exists just prior to reaching the ghost town of Leadfield. This drive is often not too difficult for all-wheel drive sedan type vehicles. Again, check with the NPS first. If you want to be in a tight canyon with spectacular rock walls, this is your place!
So far, I’ve been hitting on a lot of varied terrain and roads, but it’s time now to get down to those special areas that I have always found a stronger lure to me than others. These are the unique areas that I find extra fun, exceptionally memorable, and more inviting due to various reasons that I will attempt to articulate. If you only have one day to see this vast sprawling territory, you most likely will not be traveling on some of the roads and trails where we are going next. But, dearest reader, you have already experienced the details of these roads from reading of the safari accounts, so at least you have an idea of my mindset up front.
As I said earlier, choosing a favorite is probably an exercise in futility, but I’ll try to order them from least to most alluring, even though I love them all. These following routes are not included here due to any particular road-rating or difficulty level, but only because I simply take pleasure in the adventure that they provide my psyche and the secluded nature to which they lead me. Just assume 4wd and a higher than normal driving ability and you’ll be fine. These routes are most clearly off the beaten path, so expect to see few people if you come here.
I will begin with Dedeckera Canyon because it is remote and affords a solitude that I have always found to be guaranteed. Most folks will not chance driving over the four class 3-4 rock steps in this canyon, so they stay out, which is why it’s so special if you’re trying to get away from the crowds at the most popular places. This is way up north in the Park, and so far from anywhere that you better hope you don’t experience a breakdown out here (of the vehicle, not you). I love this place because I feel as though I am the only living soul on the Planet when I’m here.
While you’re up this way, why not head over northeast into the Oriental Wash area, where a multitude of fun class 2-3 roads will keep you entertained for hours or a couple of days. As with the other wild places out here, the Gold Mountain area is loaded with significant history from the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century. This is primarily in Nevada up here, and outside of the DVNP boundary. It’s very remote however, so don’t go alone, or with a low fuel supply!
On the western boundary of the Park, and roughly midway north to south, is Lee Flat. It is an area defined by interesting countryside, thousands of Joshua trees, and plenty of fun-to-drive class-2 roadways. It is relaxing to travel through and around here, and the Flat can be accessed by wide and graded class-1 roads from Highway 190, west of Panamint Springs. I once took my mom through Lee Flat, and it was pure pleasure. Some of the short canyons are fascinating. Of course, I once took my mom up the Lippencott road, so the fact that she went to a particular locale is no guarantee that it’s easy (or fun for the average person).
Hidden Valley, and the side road to White Top Mountain are also must-do routes for the adventurous explorer with sufficient time, as well as Hunter Mountain. If you come to Hidden Valley from the south, you’ve just experienced the Lee Flat region and Hunter Mountain first. If you come to Hidden Valley from the north, you’ve just experienced The Racetrack Valley (unless you came up the Lippencott road).
Hidden Valley is an open basin with an easy class-1 road traversing it. Remote is the word to describe the locale, and if you take the side road to White Top Mountain, the feeling will intensify. White Top road is a blast to drive, and is generally class-2. It rounds over hill and dale, up scenic canyons, and climbs in elevation in the Cottonwood Mountains (northern Panamint Range). You’ll like it out here, and the area can provide a few days of extended exploration, if you like primitive camping conditions.
Hunter Mountain certainly is one of my favorites. The caveat is however, never come up here when it has been raining, or if the land is still snowbound. The same soft ground that makes the drive a wholesome delight when dry is also the ground that will suck up your rig when saturated. Keep an eye on the NPS Morning Report on their website (http://www.nps.gov/deva) prior to coming. It is class 1-2 most of the way, and the views are spectacular most of the trip. The northern portion of the mountain is a steep and narrow switchback road that links Hidden Valley to it, and is also fun to drive. On top of the mountain, you can see Mount Whitney too. And don’t forget that Hunter’s Cabin is hidden up here on a neat side road.
Do you like western Nevada? Well, part of Death Valley National Park exists here, a huge triangular shaped portion that juts out from eastern California. It is in this triangle that you’ll find another of my favorite wild places, in the names of Strozzi Ranch and Phinney Canyon. For the residents of Beatty, Nevada, this can be an easy day trip for a picnic lunch, but for the rest of us, plan on setting aside some time if you want to see it. Both of these roads head up into the eastern side of the Grapevine Mountains in the Amargosa Range, and provide hours of exciting class-2 exploration.
This is especially true of the Strozzi Ranch road, which can generally be driven in a 2wd truck with no difficulty. At the end of the road is Strozzi Ranch, still standing, with a few roads to explore, along with a very nice dedicated camping area just west of the main ranch house (under some beautiful shade trees). There are even picnic tables here. At this elevation, there are Juniper and Pinyon Pines everywhere, and quite a few fascinating rock formations. The canyon narrows as you travel up it to the west, and is always fun to drive. A short connecting road takes you over to the Phinney Canyon road part way back down.
Phinney is an explorer’s delight, starting out like Strozzi, but going even higher in elevation in a canyon that gets even tighter – so tight in fact that the road climbs out of it at one point and switchbacks to the top at Phinney Pass. You are in a heavily wooded setting here, and as the road goes up, you’ll experience everything from class-2 travel all the way up to tiny class-4 spurts. Oh, there’s also a gigantic boulder at one point, blocking the road to large vehicles. This canyon is fun, exciting, and the kind of place of which you will always have fond memories. You’ll want to come back too!
Both the Phinney Canyon and the Strozzi Ranch roads necessitate that you come back down the same way you went up. There are dirt backroads that will take you south to Rhyolite, or north across Sarcobatus Flat to Highway 267 into Scotty’s Castle.
This next pleasurable locale that is one of my top preferred regions covers less square mileage than the Phinney/Strozzi area, but has many more roads branching off for extended exploration. And, since it is a former high-activity mining area, makes for quite a bit of remarkable history learning. Chloride City and Chloride Cliff epitomize that which backcountry explorers seek, namely an area that provides hours or days of discovery and poking around on class 2-3 roadbeds offering intermediate challenge in places, but generally non-problematic.
Old ghost buildings abound around every hill and mountainside it seems, and roads are so numerous that you’d have to be out here at least a full day to visit them all. The nice thing about it is that it’s a relatively small area and an easy drive north from Furnace Creek. The icing on the cake is taking the roadways south as far as you can (don’t turn east into Nevada at the one key intersection), and ending up at Chloride Cliff, which, as its name boldly implies, is a precipitous drop into Death Valley to the southwest, with breathtaking views to match!
I just flat feel great when I’m here because it is just so darned fun to drive, explore, and hike. Here is another neat reason to come to the Chloride area: Monarch Canyon.
Monarch Canyon and spring is clearly a Death Valley territory must-see. Please drive this impressive canyon slowly though, for it is tight, with high walls, and when the road ends, it ends … at a magnificent two-story dryfall! The drivable portion of the canyon is probably a mile or less, and it cuts off the road to Chloride City not far from the paved highway that heads to Beatty, Nevada. I can’t imagine anyone not finding Monarch Canyon a natural wonder that brings awe and respect for the forces of nature. The canyon road is moderate class-2, no problem for most folks, and reminds me of Echo Canyon south of Furnace Creek. Do not drive any farther on the roadway past the big falls, for it is far too hazardous, and it falls away near the bottom, which would probably lead to a rollover.
The road that leads to Monarch and Chloride is roughly 3.4 miles east of Hell’s Gate, and is NOT well signed, so slow down when the odometer says you’re getting close! Someone wrote in black marker “Chloride City” on the wooden sign that advises 4wd. Don’t miss this one!
Similar in feel to Monarch and Chloride is Echo Canyon. The main drawback here though is the proximity to Furnace Creek, which means that everyone and their brother with a BEV will be in here looking around. Drive with care on this class 2-3 road, especially when rounding blind corners in the narrow canyon. Rock walls are strikingly high, and each turn brings another “wow” from most. Don’t miss the Eye of the Needle … keep checking the rock walls on the right to see the large slit in the rock. Near the end of this road you will find a ghost town in excellent shape, called the Inyo Mine area.
Where the road dead-ends, you can hike to your heart’s content, all the way into Nevada if you are so inclined. About a mile and a half before you get to the Inyo Mine, the road to Echo Pass cuts off to the north at a wooden sign that reads, “Amargosa”. For a ways, it is similar in difficulty as the road you just traveled, but at a point where the canyon constricts, lurk three class 4-5 dryfalls for experts only. You can however, explore the road to this point and turn around if you don’t want to attempt the intimidating falls. Many people camp in these canyons – you will likely not be alone.
I think I’ll finish up this area and road discussion with one of my all-time favorite places, which is also quite popular for avid backroad people, and therefore requires caution while driving. The Panamint Mountains, which contain the four canyons on the eastern flank that began this article, are also the same mountains that contain a few western-slope canyons with a considerably different feel.
My outing of choice for many years was the route up Surprise Canyon to the old silver mining ghost town of Panamint City, and all the auxiliary roads that branch off up in the open valley. However, this road has been closed for a few years now, due to forces of nature and government combined, so it exists currently as a hike for top notch athletic hikers only (14 mile minimum round trip). If you love to hike like I do, this is a guaranteed pleaser. For the average person though, who usually drives to wild destinations and maybe does a little hiking, all is not lost just because Surprise Canyon is now restricted.
Three canyons to the south of Surprise, also originating out of the Panamint Valley near the almost-ghost town of Ballarat, you’ll find Pleasant Canyon, which is well-named because it is very pleasant to drive for a seasoned backcountry explorer. It takes you high up into the Panamints, on class 2-3 road with much to see in the way of mining history. Once at the top, awesome views of Death Valley will take your breath away as you look over the edge at Rogers Pass. To the south of the pass you’ll find a treasure trove of exploration opportunities in Middle Park and South Park, and you can spend several days up in here if you really want to see it all! Striped Butte and Butte Valley can also be seen from the ridge east of South Park. It gets cold at night due to the elevation, so come prepared. In winter, it will be snowbound.
If you are here on a weekend, be prepared for others on the backroads. This is the only drawback to this area compared to a place like, say, Steel Pass, where I’ve never seen another person on any trip. Come during the middle of the week though, and you’ll likely experience it by yourself, or with only a few folks here and there.
A loop can be made out of this trip by coming back down South Park Canyon, yet I would not recommend it for anyone but the most daring experts with able rigs, due to some highly dangerous and potentially fatal sections down the canyon. If you want to just have a fun trip, come up Pleasant Canyon, visit Middle Park and South Park, along with the ridges overlooking Death Valley, and then go back down to Ballarat the way you came up. Don’t chance South Park Canyon – it’s just not worth the potential for disaster! That’s precisely why Tom Harrison’s current map does not show the South Park Canyon road as going through.
You may be asking yourself if Pleasant Canyon and environs are my number one choice for the ultimate experience in the Death Valley territory. Perhaps it may be so if you consider only the driving aspect of outback touring, but there exists one final spot that takes top honors for me personally … a place where nature, solitude, and a natural high all come perfectly together, as if deliberately orchestrated by Nature, for unmatched consciousness of the mind.
Mahogany Flat is the base camp for activities in my favorite haunt, at the end of a dirt road that comes through Wildrose Canyon and past the Charcoal Kilns. Taking top honors in all my Death Valley territory wild places is Telescope Peak, an experience that is absolutely worth the extended effort if you love to hike (read story here). No BEVs are allowed, as it’s hiking only for seven miles to the top of the highest elevation in DVNP. At 11,049 feet above sea level, and 11,331 feet above Badwater Basin in Death Valley, Telescope Peak is literally the pinnacle of it all. This is one Wild Place where you can spend a couple of hours in one spot just drinking in all that the natural world delivers to your senses. Views in all directions are unparalleled in this vast territory, and looking down into Death Valley’s sink below to the east, you will be gazing a distance roughly twice that of looking down into the Grand Canyon.
Of course, if you’re not into hiking in a big way, then Telescope will not find its way into your itinerary. The nice consolation however is that you can see the peak from so many places in Death Valley National Park that you will get the general idea of how great it would be to stand on top.
Speaking of hikes, there are many out here, and depending on whether you are more vehicle oriented or foot oriented, they may or may not be applicable for you. If you love Titus Canyon because of its high cliff walls, then you’d delight in a great hike south of Stovepipe Wells in Mosaic Canyon, with its tight passages that only a creature the size of a human or less can fit through. Grotto Canyon, Mosaic’s neighbor, is also top notch. Red Cathedral, on the Golden Canyon hike is not to be missed either, for its shear imposing stature. Fall Canyon, a northern neighbor of Titus Canyon, is a must-do hike also. Consider too that if the NPS has Titus Canyon road closed, you can still drive to its western exit, park in the large dirt lot, and hike into the narrows without thought of seeing a vehicle.
Hikes for me are like an extension of an already great trip in my BEV. If a road ends, then I get out and start hiking. If you are one who finds pleasure on foot, you can certainly come out to Death Valley for just that “theoretical day” and really leave with some excellent memories and photographs. Just around Stovepipe Wells and Furnace Creek are a number of outstanding hikes that, if you really keep focused on the hikes only, can largely be done in one long day (and you don’t even need a BEV either).
How can anyone really compare hiking to driving? They are like apples and oranges, each complimenting the other in many ways, but each unique. Some folks enjoy only driving, and some only hiking, while others such as myself, definitely are happily pleased by both activities. And, unlike some, I don’t have a rigid negative opinion regarding folks who do either activity.
To finally wrap up this discussion of favorite places, let me just leave you with what I think the average backcountry explorer might prefer on a weekend time span. Based on what is typical for time crunched folks, who may come out here and do an overnight at Furnace Creek or Stovepipe Wells while wanting to explore some easy dirt backroads with their factory-stock 4wd vehicle, I recommend the following day trips:
Echo Canyon – Chloride City – Titus Canyon – Skidoo – Aguereberry Point – Greenwater Valley – Gold Valley – maybe Cottonwood Canyon if you don’t mind it rougher.
If you want to travel farther out, and maybe have three days, try: The Racetrack – Hidden Valley – Hunter Mountain – Lee Flat – Strozzi Ranch – maybe Warm Spring Canyon and Butte Valley if you don’t mind it rougher.
As always, don’t forget that any opinion of a road or trail’s condition should not be relied upon if weather events have been at work (and they constantly are). An easy road can become a deadly road in a flash when water falls from the skies. Rocks and snow can make roads impassable. Never assume anything in this territory. As I like to say, you won’t know until you go!
Okay, that fairly well summarizes what’s on my mind. Between the other safari accounts and this overall nutshell view, I suspect you have a reasonably good idea of these areas and what’s right for your personal situation. If you need more information, please email me your questions. I will make best efforts to maintain an ongoing website that allows for communication if you wish further clarification on particular areas. See the contact information at the end of this journal if you need additional assistance.
Happy trails to you! May you always feel the marvelous kinship and companionship of the natural world on all your backcountry safaris, and return with an enlightened sense of self.























Michel,
Dans le cas tres heureux ou vous seriez du cote de DVNP, je serai a Panamint Springs “resort” le 27/28 avril. Au cas ou.
Cela fait pas mal de temps que j’espere avoir le plaisir de vous rencontrer pour parler de
Saline, Steel Pass, etc…
Cordialement,
Bernard A, Friedrich
Westlake Village, CA 91361
1-805-379-3994
April 9, 2011 at 9:03 am
Hi Bernard!
This is Steve Greene. What a surprise to see your comment in French, only because no one else had thus far commented in other than English. Of course, since it is directed to Michel, he will understand it. Thanks for writing!
Steve
April 11, 2011 at 2:45 pm