What to See L-Z

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK ATTRACTIONS & SIGHTS

CONTINUING FROM “WHAT TO SEE A-K“

here is the L-Z section

LAKE HILL: At first glance, this may seem like a lake named Hill, however, in reality it is a hill named Lake! Near the northern end of the Panamint Valley, Lake Hill rises to an elevation of 2,030 feet above sea level, and is thought to have slid off the Panamint Range to the east thousands of years ago, due to its composition that cannot be explained by where it currently sits. If we drive the dirt road that goes to the Big Four Mine, we can park mid-drive and hike to Lake Hill’s summit, which is about four miles from the road. The small mountain was an island from time to time ages ago when a lake actually covered the Panamint Valley. North of Lake Hill is Hunter Mountain, and the Panamint Sand Dunes are close by also.

LAKE MANLY: While it may seem unlikely now, in the past a large body of water existed in Death Valley, ranging from north of the present-day Stovepipe Wells, to the south past Saratoga Springs. The current name given this water is Lake Manly, named after one of the men who sought help for stranded gold seekers in the mid 1800s. This lake was the result of Ice Age glaciers in the Sierra Nevada Mountains that were in the process of melting. If we stand at Badwater today, we realize that we would have been deeply submerged hundreds of feet in the distant days of yore. Water and wave action left their marks on Shoreline Butte in the southern valley, along with other locations on the surrounding mountainsides. At its peak size, Lake Manly is thought to have been 80 to 100 miles long, 10 to 12 miles wide, and 600 feet deep. Smaller lakes to depths of 30 feet have formed here since Lake Manly’s reign between 128,000 to 186,000 years ago, and as early as 10,000 years ago, the first people of the region began taking up residence. Lake Manly was fed from the east by the Amargosa River, which first filled Lake Tecopa near present day Shoshone, and then the water continued on into the southern end of the valley to fill Manly. From the west, Lake Manly was fed through Wingate Wash in the southern Panamint Mountains by Panamint Lake in the present-day Panamint Valley, which was in turn fed by Searles Lake of the present-day Searles Valley. Some references will refer to any lake in Death Valley at any time as Lake Manly, essentially saying that this lake is always in varying stages of existence through the ages – one source refers to a 2005 partial filling of the valley as Lake Manly. In contrast, the United States Geological Survey states on their website: “Several lakes have occupied Death Valley since the close of the Pleistocene Epoch 10,000 years ago, but these younger lakes were quite shallow compared to Lake Manly.” Agreement of geologic and historic aspects of this legendary land may sometimes be lacking, but the grandeur of this natural world can always be assured to keep our enthusiasm high.

LAST CHANCE MOUNTAIN: Located in the northern portion of the Last Chance Range, this 8,456-foot high mountain is very remote and rarely visited. Most folks who do come here to hike this peak will travel past Crankshaft Crossing, via the Big Pine-Death Valley road. Last Chance Mountain is close to the northeastern point of Death Valley National Park. Roadbed to the end of the road at the small cabin and mine is class-3 in places, and the other roads up to that point are either wide and graded dirt or easy two track affairs. The mining area here became active in the 1930s apparently, but recent word has it that the cabin has burned, which is unfortunate because it has been a popular overnight for some folks over the years, with its little rock fireplace and rustic ambiance. There is a water spring right nearby also, making this a small oasis of solitude. If we choose to hike to the summit of Last Chance Mountain, we will be rewarded with thick pinyon and juniper pine forests, along with a view southwesterly of the distant Eureka Sand Dunes. The views experienced from the top are the main reason to come up here, but if we trek too early in the year, snow could impede our progress. Mid spring or in the fall sometime may be best.

LAST CHANCE RANGE: Forming the eastern boundary of the Eureka Valley as the most visually intriguing portion of their span, the Last Chance Range is a very remote mound of mountains. This range separates the northernmost reaches of Death Valley from the Saline and Eureka Valleys to the west. This chain of mountains is roughly fifty miles long, north to south, and is the third highest range in DVNP. If we are at the Eureka Sand Dunes looking east in late afternoon, we will notice beautiful huge bands of colored rock in this range, streaking in a horizontal fashion with tints of yellow. These mountains are in the northern portion of the park, and are seen by few visitors, except from the east when in the vicinity of Ubehebe Crater. The chief reason that few folks visit them is that there are few roadways that get us very close. This range was not as heavily mined as the Panamint and Amargosa Ranges. Visitors to the Eureka Sand Dunes will be rewarded with the most spectacular views of the Last Chance Range. It is generally class-2 on the western slope, sandy in spots, but passable for most 2wd vehicles on the washboarded road of the Eureka Dunes side. Dry Mountain is the highest point, at 8,674 feet, with Last Chance Mountain not far behind at 8,456 feet.

LEADFIELD GHOST TOWN: Here is one of the greatest frauds of all time. A town called Leadfield, where fortunes were taken from hopeful investors, thrived shortly even though it did not have a producing mine. Charles Julian hired a train and fleet of automobiles in 1926 to bring hundreds of wealth-seekers out to see his magnificent operation, wining and dining them as a means to get at their pocketbooks. It is quite a fascinating story, and it ended with Julian being legally investigated when mining experts seriously began to doubt the validity of his claims. After much damaging litigation, Julian backed out of Leadfield and convinced most of his investors that he was framed, rising later in another scheme to keep the money flowing in. Ultimately though, justice triumphed (after he had cheated many out of millions), and the man chose to live no more, bringing death upon himself (money still does not bring happiness). Leadfield is on the Titus Canyon road, and includes a traverse of scenic Red Pass. This road is occasionally closed due to weather or landslide events, but can often be driven in all wheel drive station wagon type vehicles.

LEE FLAT: The most noteworthy attraction to Lee Flat is the sprawling Joshua tree forest, where the class-2 road weaves for miles in an area traveled by few. Lee Flat is nestled between the Inyo Mountains and the Nelson Range, and it is a short but spectacular jaunt along the ridge of the Inyo Mountains, down to Cerro Gordo on the west side. If we are heading to Hunter Mountain from Panamint Springs, Lee Flat is a fun place to visit, and is mostly class 1-2 driving, fairly easy for most any vehicle, and also okay for 2wd sedans in good weather. Neighboring Santa Rosa Flat also provides some secluded time away from the crowds. Watch out for stray burros when in this area, and make sure the fuel tank is full prior to heading out, as the mileages are long with no services conveniently located close by. Average yearly precipitation is approximately seven inches in this high valley.

LIPPENCOTT ROAD: This feared road is the only one that directly connects The Racetrack to the Saline Valley. Most accounts of the grade will strike fear into the hearts of most backcountry explorers. This road requires a high clearance 4wd vehicle with low range, and an experienced backroad driver. Denting a rim or two may be in the scenario. Plan on class 3-5, depending on the year and weather. It is a nice challenge, but not nearly so frightening as South Park Canyon’s “Chicken Rock” or Goler Canyon during a bad year. If South Pass and North Pass are closed due to snow, and we need to access the Saline Valley, this is the easiest way down. The other way, Steel Pass, is much longer, more remote, and not advised unless we are in a group. This road is not shown on the AAA map, but it is shown on Tom Harrison’s map. There is a bit of Death Valley history well hidden within the confines of the canyon, up which the Lippencott road travels. Somewhere around the halfway mark of the steep switchback section, we find a stone marker. Some folks pass it without noticing, most likely because the terrain usually has the driver’s full attention and the marker blends in well with the surroundings. This is a stone sign with a metal placard attached to the northwest side of it. If we are driving down the Lippencott road, the metal section is on the other side, but we will see it if coming up. This is a sign designating the entry into Death Valley National Monument, which was formed in 1933. This was the boundary of DVNM until 1994, when DVNM became DVNP – the California Desert Protection Act came into law that year and morphed the monument into a park, while also greatly expanding its borders. This sign is a historical remnant worthy of a photograph. If it is morning, good luck in photographing it though, because the metal is dark and on the shady side, which leads to an underexposed photo (unless a powerful flash or mirror is used to reflect the sunlight onto the sign’s face).

LITTLE HEBE CRATER: Everyone comes to see big brother, but most miss this smaller sibling. Little Hebe Crater is about a half mile south of Ubehebe crater on an easy hiking trail, and perhaps 5,000 years younger than Ubehebe. If we come here on a windy day, the walk can make conversation nearly impossible, as the winds will really howl across this region. These craters are deep and steep, so please respect the trails that encircle their rims. Little Hebe Crater is called a splatter cone, where molten lava is ejected like gooey taffy. It grew inside an older and larger crater. For those who come to this group of craters to see lava, Little Hebe has the single significant deposit of it. This small crater has the shape of a football field, most readily observed from air photographs. These impressive craters are about nine miles west of Scotty’s Castle, are on paved roads, and can be driven in a sedan. For anyone intending on going south to Teakettle Junction and The Racetrack, a visit here first is in order. Just hold on to any headgear when exiting the vehicle!

LOST BURRO GAP: This is a short and narrow passage that allows people to drive from Teakettle Junction into Hidden Valley. It is a rarely experienced drive due to its extreme isolation, and the only way we can tell that it exists is by driving the road to its entrance, for it is not obvious from a distance. The gap is about a mile in length, the drive is fun class-2, and about a hundred million years of Earth’s geologic history is exposed on either side of our vehicles. Like Hidden Valley, it is dusty class-1 washboard on The Racetrack road (the easiest way to get here).

LOST BURRO MINE: About four miles from the eastern entrance to Lost Burro Gap is the Lost Burro mine, up on a hill at the end of a steep class 2-3 dirt road. Quite a bit of gold was mined from here in the early 1900s. The Lost Burro mine is in the northwestern corner of Hidden Valley, a short drive southeast from Teakettle Junction. A prospector named Bert Shively apparently found gold here in 1907, while stumbling around attempting to round up his lost burros. Over $30,000 worth of gold ore had been stockpiled at the mine by 1909. One little part of the road to the mine is tricky when washed out, so keep an eye open for it. No camping is allowed at this mine.

LOST WHISKEY: Now here was a creative scheme to keep the interests of the pioneering vacationers elevated, those who were part of the new tourism rush in the 1920s. Business entrepreneur Bob Eichbaum, the original visionary creator of what we now call Stovepipe Wells Village, hired a fellow to take his tourists on automobile rides over the sand dunes, and Bob would also be in the vehicle. Bob would tell a story to the visitors about a whiskey shipment and driver that became lost out here in the 1870s, and neither shipment nor driver had ever been found. He went on to explain to the wide eyed tourists that his employee had stubbed his toe on something out here the night before and wanted to come out this morning to see what it was. All of a sudden, as Bob finished up his little far fetched tale, the driver began hollering that he found the lost whiskey, and the astonished sightseers would then notice him unearthing a wooden box of empty whiskey bottles. This dramatic little enactment was played out on a regular basis apparently, and each new round of vacationers relived the finding of the mythical lost whiskey shipment. Bob also presented the other side of life each year through his Easter sunrise service on the Mesquite Sand Dunes near his resort. Maybe you can find that whiskey shipment while hiking these dunes on your next trip!

MAHOGANY FLAT: At 8,133 feet above sea level, the flat is covered in juniper and pinyon pines. The views of Death Valley are superb, sunrises are spectacular, and the temperatures sometimes invite us to escape to the warmer valley below. Here is where the hiking trail to Telescope Peak begins. It can be cold and snowing up here on a winter or spring morning, while warm, sunny, and inviting 8,000 feet below in the valley. There is a small (and free) campground here. Mahogany can range from class 3-4, and be closed in snowy weather. A high clearance 4wd vehicle is recommended anytime, although some adventurous drivers of all-wheel-drive station wagons and small 2wd cars make the top when the road is dry and in good condition. The rough and steep part is a short switchback section near the end. Mahogany Flat gives new perspective to the lowlands of Death Valley.

MANLY BEACON: If photographically inclined, and who is not today, then Manly Beacon south of Furnace Creek is a must-do stop for us, especially in the morning or evening. Named after William Manly, one of the members of the Bennett-Arcan gold seeking party, this pointed protrusion of primal earth is a sight to behold, and likely the most photographed image in DVNP. To the west behind the beacon is the mighty Panamint Range, and between the two points is Death Valley. We can hike from Zabriskie Point (where most folks take their photos at the parking lot) down Golden Canyon to Red Cathedral, and exit at the Badwater Basin road (Highway 178). It is a walk of around five miles, and will give us fabulous views of Manly Beacon not seen by the masses of tourists who travel here.

MARBLE CANYON: Here is another canyon that is great for hiking narrows. It is a relatively easy drive on a dirt backroad just west of Stovepipe Wells about ten miles, and petroglyphs may be found in here if we are on the lookout. Apparently, about a third of the petroglyphs to be found in the park exist in this region of the northern Panamint Range. A hike to Dead Horse Canyon is a memorable outing that is well worth the effort for fit and adventurous folks. The narrow sections of this canyon are quite magnificent, allowing us to feel as though we are dwarfed in a fairytale land of some sort. On the same approach road as Cottonwood Canyon, Marble Canyon is reachable by most 4wd vehicles on a long and rough class 2-3 road. Marble is closed to vehicles partway up, leaving hiking from there on as our option.

MENGEL PASS: At an elevation of 4,326 feet, this pass was named after Carl Mengel, a prospector who lived on the eastern side of the divide at Greater View Spring, south of Anvil Spring. Nice views are had from up here. Carl’s ashes are reportedly contained in the rock monument that exists at the top of the pass honoring him. Mengel Pass is accessed from Goler Canyon to the west, or Butte Valley to the east. Carl owned the Oro Fino mine in Goler Canyon, which had a small amount of high-grade ore, but he died poor of tuberculosis in 1944. He was a friend of Shorty Harris and Jean “Pete” Aguereberry. We get here only in a high clearance 4wd vehicle on class 3-5 roads that can change from year to year. Driving up from the Death Valley side is longer, but usually easier than driving up from the Panamint Valley side (shorter, but can be dangerous, and often requires much driving expertise). The ridge upon which the stone edifice sits is somewhat barren, and can be windswept at times.

MESQUITE FLAT SAND DUNES: Here are the dunes that most people see and associate with Death Valley National Park, just east of Stovepipe Wells Village, although there are many more dunes elsewhere, some of which are quite a bit higher. These centrally located dunes are easy hiking for many visitors. Bob Eichbaum drove tourists around these dunes in the 1920s. The source for all this sand is the surrounding mountains to the west and northwest. The Cottonwoods are the in the northern portion of the mighty Panamint Range. The sand grains in this dune field are quartz and feldspar, and began as much larger pieces of stone before erosive Aeolian Processes had their way with them. As rain in the mountains sends flash floods down canyons, rocks tumble along and are broken into smaller pieces. Over eons of time, rocks end up as small pebbles on the alluvial fans at the mouths of the canyons. Then, once the pebbles are finally ground tiny and granular enough, prevailing northwesterly winds pick them up and blow them out onto Mesquite Flat, where the dunes formed. In as little as ten mile per hour winds, the tiny sand grains on the surface of the dunes take to flight, erasing footprints from earlier, and swirling around to create a never ending array of fresh forms, to the delight of visiting photographers who come out here in the mornings and evenings to capture impressive images. For many years, Easter sunrise services have been held on these dunes, a practice initiated by Bob Eichbaum to spur early visitation in the 1920s.

MILTON THE MAMMOTH: Between the desert towns of Shoshone and Tecopa, on the eastern fringe of Death Valley National Park, a group of geology students found the fossilized remains of a Columbian mammoth in  1983. This large mammal spent about fifteen years at the Sonoma State University, north of San Francisco, on display for all to see. During the waning days of the twentieth century, the mammoth was disassembled and moved to the small Shoshone Museum in Shoshone, California, where it was reconstructed for display once again. The members of the museum board have affectionately named this stately, and very old, animal Milton. An article in the  April 30, 1999 edition of the Pahrump Valley Times newspaper in Nevada said this of the mammoth: “Scientists believe the Columbian mammoth walked the Earth more than 100,000 years ago, when southern Nevada and eastern California looked more like an African savannah than a desert. Milton is thought to have been a male mammoth, which most likely weighed more than seven tons and died when it was a teenager.” While fueling our vehicles at the Charlie Brown Store in this tiny town, a visit across the street to see Milton might prove a unique highlight for the day.

MONARCH CANYON: As spectacular as Titus Canyon and the other water-worn crevices out here, Monarch Canyon is a short jaunt for anyone with a sense of adventure who wishes to try their hand at a little unpaved roadway navigation. This canyon road is short, perhaps not even a mile in length, but the sheer high rock walls that tower above our vehicles make it worth our time to see. The huge dryfall that finally stops vehicular ingress is where hiking takes over as the preferred mode of transportation. Monarch Canyon is reached by taking the two track dirt road that goes to Chloride City ghost town. Taking the paved Daylight Pass road out of Death Valley, this road to Chloride is almost three and a half miles east of the Beatty Cutoff road, and is very easy to miss if we are not going slowly and watching. The only sign is a small wooden one that suggests four wheel drive is a good idea. Just over two miles in on this class-2 dirt road, Monarch Canyon takes off to the right, and is like a magnet for anyone who loves tight and mysterious drives. This canyon is at the northern end of the Funeral Mountains, part of the Amargosa Range that forms the eastern boundary of DVNP. Deep in Monarch Canyon is also the Indian Mine, a short-lived effort to make the gold in these mountains pay dividends – trouble was, there simply was not enough of the mineral to make it a financially viable operation. Due to a gigantic dryfall in this canyon farther down, access to the lower portions must be on foot from the lower end.

MORMON POINT: In the southern portion of Death Valley, Mormon Point sits on Highway 178 about 12 miles north of the Ashford Mill ruins. It is approximately 290 feet above sea level, and looks down on the salt pan of the Valley. A fair number of people identified as Mormons sought silver and gold riches in the region for quite some time, and we will find mention of them scattered throughout Death Valley history accounts.

MOSAIC CANYON: For folks who like to hike deep into little tight places where the sun rays rarely penetrate, Mosaic Canyon rises to our need, and if we are staying at Stovepipe Wells, it is just right across the street practically. We will be surrounded by high walls of polished rock with mosaic-like patterns of several colors charming our senses. This is a must-do hike if we love to walk and explore. We can see the canyon from the village, two miles away. The hike is worth it! When in this area, also visit and hike Grotto Canyon just to the east. We could easily spend a weekend staying in Stovepipe Wells and hiking these two canyons. Both Mosaic and Grotto have tunnel-like passages that are just wide enough for a person to barely squeeze through, making them really mystical and special for the eager explorer! Although the entry walk into Mosaic Canyon appears somewhat barren, once inside less than a quarter mile, our eyes will pop right out of our head. We are now entering the lower slopes of Tucki Mountain, and this canyon becomes extremely constricted, to the point that at places it requires a little body English to get through or up. As one may suspect, water is the primary agent of erosive change in here, and since the rock walls are tough enough not to erode completely away, we have these tight little squeezes that so many people love. Never, however, come in here during rain! Flash floods will make short work of a human body. Scientific word has it that these rock walls are Precambrian (that means really old) carbonate. All this began forming over 700 million years ago while under a warm sea. We will definitely want to have our cameras ready during this hike! If we are fit enough, there is no limit to how far we can go up here. In fact, we can get high enough to swing east and drop down into Grotto Canyon for a loop, but we had better be very well prepared, in top notch shape, and able to scale tall dryfalls with little or no fear. Allow a full day to do this hike to explore in detail, but we can get a very good idea of this canyon’s magnificence in as little as 30 minutes if time is short, because some of the best parts are fairly close to the constricted mouth area. This is clearly a must-do hike for nearly anyone.

MUSEUMS: At least two within the park boundary are worth seeing. One is located at the Death Valley Ranch (DVR, also known as Scotty’s Castle), and the other is located at the Furnace Creek Visitor’s Center. Scotty’s Castle Museum contains artifacts from the grand days of mining and legends, including an old black and white movie of the ranch, a historical treasure trove that provides a focused experience of Albert Johnson and Walter Scott. This museum is open all year from 9 am to 5 pm, and is located towards the northern end of DVNP, about 53 miles north of Furnace Creek and about 45 miles from Stovepipe Wells Village. Two paved roads access the museum, one from California and one from Nevada (Highway 267). While visiting the museum, also be sure to take the guided tour of Albert Johnson’s luxurious castle, which he called a vacation home while on leave from his Chicago insurance business. According to the legend and lore of Scotty’s Castle, there is an extensive gold mine underneath that still contains inexhaustible quantities of the mineral – this of course, courtesy of Walter Scott’s dubious imagination. The other museum, while somewhat more commonplace since there is no subterranean gold mine, is no less fascinating however for historians. Hang out at Furnace Creek for a couple of days to see it all, part of which is inside and part outside. Artifacts from times of mining yore keep us engaged for hours.

MUSHROOM ROCK: Located about 7 miles south of Furnace Creek, this oddly shaped rock stands alongside the road, appearing to nearly defy gravity. The shape is that of a mushroom, with a larger base, a slim center, and a bulbous top. It is basalt rock that has been artfully sculpted by the unrelenting forces of nature, called Aeolian Processes, and it will obviously meet an unceremonious end at some point in time since nothing can withstand such forces forever. A large portion of Mushroom Rock broke off a few decades back, partly due to people climbing on it, or, as the saying goes: “loving it to death.” It is right off the paved highway Drive slowly though, because there is no longer a sign for it, and unless we know what to look for, we are likely to sail right on by at 55 miles per hour. The parking area has been removed, leaving only the shoulder on which to place our automobiles. According to NPS comment, removal of the signage and parking area was carried out at the wishes of the Timbisha Shoshone tribe, due to the rock’s sacred status within their culture.

NADEAU ROAD: Remi Nadeau was a wise visionary man, and consequently, became incredibly wealthy running his freight hauling business through the Panamint Valley region. So many mining operations in the Panamint, Argus, and Inyo Ranges needed ore hauled to market and supplies brought back that in 1877 he built what eventually became known as the Nadeau Shotgun Road, so that his mule teams (more than thirty of them) could do it more quickly and directly. The road is straight as a shotgun, and fairly easy to drive today. It is due west of Ballarat, running north and south along the alluvial fans of the Argus Range in the Panamint Valley.

NATURAL BRIDGE: An easy drive 15 miles south of Furnace Creek takes us to the trailhead of a short hike to a very special place. A natural bridge 50 feet high has formed from the forces of erosion in a wash, with a grotto nearby. Natural Bridge is in the northern portion of the Black Mountains on the western slope. Up and to the south is the Dante’s View overlook. It is a two mile class-1 dirt road from the highway.

NORTH PASS: There are two “easy” passes that lead into the Saline Valley. This is one of them, and South Pass is the other. Although, in the winter, both passes (especially North Pass, elevation 7,300 feet above sea level) can be deeply buried under snow. The other two entrances are the Lippencott Road and over Steel Pass, both of which should only be attempted by expert backroad drivers. Folks coming in from Big Pine would use North Pass as the most direct route. It is a steep class-1 mountain road that can be made difficult and dangerous by weather. Please check with rangers if possible to determine its condition prior to driving into the Saline Valley.

OLD DINAH: As a more efficient method of hauling borax out of Death Valley, a mechanical device was conceived to replace the mules and horses that pulled the huge and heavy wagons of the twenty mule teams. Borax Smith, the kingpin of the business, had a massive oil-burning steam tractor built in 1896 to do the job, and it was eventually dubbed Old Dinah. This attempted improvement proved to be a big mistake when Old Dinah quickly encountered problems such as digging into the ground and rearing up on its large rear wheels. Not only that, but it had to have nightly maintenance to remain viable. Old Dinah was soon just another relic of the times, and can be seen today at Furnace Creek Ranch, in the southern dirt parking area.

OUTLAW CAVE: Strongly supported rumor has it that a large natural configuration of sizable rocks forms a very useful cave around the Butte Valley environs in the southern reaches of Death Valley National Park. Its size allows a number of people to take shelter inside, warmed during cold winter nights by an old rusty wood-burning stove set near a back wall of human-inserted stonework. Some folks may not find the spacious cave, with stones the size of small autos, too hospitable for any long-term occupation, but of course, those who travel this far out from civilization are cut from the hardy cloth of the pioneer, and delight to behold such an incredible sight. Outlaw Cave presents a significant challenge to locate, and is usually only found when one is guided to it by a fortunate rare soul who has chanced upon it during a prior visit. This is truly a Land of Legend, and in keeping with the mystique of the wild backcountry, no further accounting will be provided here. The fun is in the search, after all. Good luck!

OVERLOOKS: The great thing about Death Valley being so low is that everywhere else is higher, which tends to mean that wherever we go, we will be looking down into the valley. So where are the best places to see the remarkable magnitude of this legendary land of extremes? The most popular Death Valley overlook out here is called Dante’s View, visited by more tourists than the other locales due to its ease of reaching the summit on pavement (although large motorhomes and cars with trailers must park at a wide spot below, requiring a heart-pumping walk). This overlook point is situated atop the crest of the Black Mountains in the Amargosa Range, on the eastern edge of Death Valley. Dante’s View is 5,475 feet above sea level, and allows an absolutely spectacular view down to Badwater, 5,757 feet below (remember that Badwater is 282 feet below sea level). Most of the common overlook photographs we see in magazines are taken from Dante’s View, the best place to go for a quick and easy overview of this legendary region. Are there other places just as impressive? Most certainly there are! Some would call them better. The next most popular Death Valley overlook is Aguereberry Point, coming in at 6,433 feet above sea level, or 958 feet above Dante’s View, or 6,715 feet above lowly Badwater below. Aguereberry Point is only accessible on a dirt road, most of which is fairly wide and graded, but the final stretches of which require a high clearance vehicle and a little daring on the part of the driver. This Death Valley overlook is atop the crest of the Panamint Range on the western edge of the main valley. An overlook that is slightly more distant, and may require even more determination to access (four wheel drive vehicle), is called Chloride Cliff, located atop the crest of the Funeral Mountains in the Amargosa Range. Chloride Cliff is 5,279 feet above sea level, and offers spectacular views of Death Valley as we look southerly, with Telescope Peak across the valley, topping off the Panamint Range. Speaking of Telescope Peak, this is without doubt the granddaddy of all Death Valley overlooks, making all the other overlooks pale by comparison! Of course, of all the visitors to DVNP, very few will ever see Death Valley from this vantage point firsthand. Why? It often necessitates a four wheel drive vehicle to even get to the trail head, and then further requires a strenuous hike of nearly seven miles to reach the summit (plus, we have to walk back seven miles to our vehicles). Topping out at 11,049 spectacular feet above sea level, or 11,331 feet above Badwater over two miles below, this pinnacle will give us reason to pause, while taking in all the distant views and pondering the meaning of life and our place in it. From Telescope Peak’s summit, we are looking way down on the other three overlooks, as this is clearly the pinnacle of it all.

OWL LAKE: If we wish to camp on these shores, two things will first have to occur. It will have to have been a fairly wet year for Owl Lake to be filled with water, and we will have to hike about five miles from the Owl Hole Spring road at the southern end of the park. It is wide open spectacular country, on a 2wd road that can be washed out in spots, and it will sure get us away from the crowds. The lake is surrounded by the Owlshead Mountains. Lost Lake is farther west on this same graded road. Make sure the vehicle is fully loaded with fuel prior heading out.

OWLSHEAD MOUNTAINS: Shaped like an owl’s head, this small circular grouping of mountains borders the park’s southern-most boundary, near the military restricted zone. These mountains played into Walter Scott’s life at one point, when he filed some claims in them at Hidden Springs, in order to keep all his credulous investors guessing. Owl Lake and Lost Lake are inside the protective arcs of the mountains – Owl Lake is the owl’s left eye, and Lost Lake is the owl’s right eye. William Denton and crew surveyed these mountains in the latter part of 1856, and Denton was struck by the shape of the two basins that contained each lake, forming what reminded him of an owl’s face, thus the name that stuck. If we take a gander at a topographical map, we will readily see the resemblance. These are easy dirt roads, class 1-2, but a long way from anywhere else. A washout could cause a class-3 at times. Better let someone know where we are going! Also, watch out for unexploded military ordinance while out this way (translates to live bombs), as the government has posted signage advising that such dangers may exist.

PAHA: This is the Timbisha Shoshone word that signifies Kitchen Rock. It is  a grinding rock that is in the Furnace Creek Inn parking lot, a huge stone that the tribal ancestors used to grind mesquite beans and other food, generally in the early summer time when the mesquite beans were picked. Since the tribe migrated each summer to the higher mountains to escape the oppressive valley heat, to locales such as Wildrose, it was easier to transport the ground flour than the whole beans. People would gather here at Kitchen Rock to give thanks to the creator for the food, dancing all night. The Furnace Creek Inn was constructed on top of the Timbisha Shoshone ceremonial dancing mounds. Timbisha elders Grace Goad and Pauline Esteves recall how they used to run and jump on the rock when they were young girls. A little bit of this rock can still be observed today. The tribe has worked cooperatively with the National Park Service and Xanterra Resorts to protect Paha, although of course, being in a parking lot is not an ideal location or circumstance.

PANAMINT CITY: Located in the uppermost reaches of Surprise Canyon at 6,280 feet elevation, Panamint City (properly known as Panamint according to the official Board of Geographic Names) was a silver producing area, and had the worst reputation of any mining town ever to stake claim to the Death Valley region. Initial large investments by Nevada senators William Stewart and John Jones began the financial frenzy, which ultimately led to a wild and woolly band of people seeking to fatten their pocketbooks, and promoters who would stop at nothing to sell more stock. Despite the fact that the mines put out as much in expenditures as they recaptured in profits, it was quite a ride from 1872 to 1877. In 1925 and 1947, attempts were made to reopen the mines, but financial realities once again dashed any hopes of wealth. During its heyday, thieves were so prevalent that those in charge began forming the silver shipments into large silver ingots that were too heavy for the bandits to carry away. The townsite is high in the Panamint Range, accessible from the west via a 7 mile hike up Surprise Canyon, or from the east via a similar distance from Hungry Bill’s Ranch on the eastern side of Panamint Pass. A huge brick chimney still stands at the main millsite. After we read the history of Panamint, we are tempted to make the journey. It was called the “toughest, rawest, most hard-boiled little hellhole that ever passed for a civilized town.” It reached a population of approximately 2,000 people in the 1870s. The road is now closed beyond Chris Wicht Camp, but class 2-3 up until that point. To see it today requires a hike a little over five miles one way … a strenuous hike for most folks, because there are several large waterfalls that must be ascended in the narrowest parts of Surprise Canyon. Panamint is the site of pictographs from an earlier culture that lived here prior to the silver boom, indicating that Kawaiisu or Shoshone people probably once lived in Surprise Canyon.

PANAMINT DRY LAKE: Not always will we find it dry on the Panamint Valley Dry Lake! This lake, wet or dry, is located in the Panamint Valley, running roughly north to south, from Warm Sulphur Spring to Redlands Canyon area. It must be crossed if heading to Ballarat from the paved Trona-Wildrose Road. If it is dry, we will make dust, but if it is wet, we will make rust – all over the underside of our vehicles. After significant rains and water runoff from the Panamint Mountains, the dry lake becomes quite flooded, and actually appears to be a regular lake. This lake is known also as Panamint Flat Dry Lake. Thousands of years ago, it really was a lake, possibly 900 feet deep, and nearly 55 miles long. At the times when ice age melt-off filled the valley with water, Lake Hill, in its northern reaches, is thought to have been an island.

PANAMINT DUNES: North of Panamint Springs, these dunes are rarely visited by tourists because of their non-paved locale in the northern end of the Panamint Valley. Only those with willing to travel a dirt road and who love to hike will experience them up close. They are visible in the valley below from South Pass to the northwest. Past the dunes, we will see the Panamint Mountains, with Telescope Peak at the high point. At the dunes is Lake Hill, with a summit of 2,030 feet, which we can climb if we have a mind to. To get within hiking distance, drive the Big Four mine road north from Highway 190, just east of Panamint Springs Resort. The road is a relatively easy drive as long as we do not attempt the final short portion that heads eastward into the mountains towards Panamint Butte.

PANAMINT RANGE: This is the range of mountains that borders Death Valley on the west, and is what stopped the gold-seeking pioneers from escaping the valley. Telescope Peak is the highest point in this range, at 11,049 feet above sea level, and 11,331 feet higher than Badwater just to the east. The Panamint Range is home to the Cottonwood Mountains. The famous silver town of Panamint thrived for a time in the 1870s, up Surprise Canyon. The name Panamint reportedly comes from southern Paiute language, from the word Panumunt – the Shoshone and Kawaiisu cultures were known as the Panumunts by the Southern Paiute culture. These mountains are full of fascinating history. This range is roughly 95 miles long south to north, around 20 miles wide in places, and it is this heavily forested range that catches much of the regional precipitation that blows in from the Pacific Ocean, thereby rendering Death Valley so arid. From much of the summit land of the Panamint Range, we have impressive views of Badwater Basin, which is about twelve miles from Telescope Peak, a distance that ranks as one of the longest precipitous slopes in the lower forty-eight states. Many roads allow access to the Panamints, both paved and dirt, including Emigrant and Wildrose Canyons, which are paved. Dirt and primitive roads include Goler, Warm Spring, South Park, Galena, Hanaupah, Johnson, Trail, Pleasant,  and Surprise Canyons. This range was formed by massive tilting of the land along an earthquake fault line. Many springs are found in the Panamints.

PANAMINT SPRINGS: Although the water is piped from Darwin Canyon nearby, this little wide spot in the road has springs in its name. It is a commercial resort with amenities necessary for park travelers, including gasoline. There is also a nice campground here if we seek a less primitive camping arrangement than in the wilds.

PANAMINT VALLEY: Between the Panamint Range to the east, and the Argus Range to the west, lies this valley, technically referred to as a graben. The southwest portion of the valley is bordered by the Slate Range, and the middle of the valley is home to the alkali flats and the almost-ghost town of Ballarat. The southernmost point of Panamint Valley is found in a Naval Weapons Center, and is therefore off limits to civilian humans. It is down this way that Layton Canyon allows access from Searles Dry Lake to the Panamint Valley, and where Thomas Wright ran his Epsom Salt Monorail  through the valley to access Wingate Wash. The northern portion of Panamint Valley surrounds Lake Hill, is home to the Panamint Dunes, and finally ceases its northern expansion at the base of the mountains that are home to Hunter Mountain. Panamint Valley is roughly 64 miles long from south to north, and a little over 10 miles wide at its widest point, from the mouth of Hall Canyon in the Panamint Range over to the Argus Range in the west.  It is from the Panamint Valley that we can access the 4wd roads into the western slope of the mountains, such as Pleasant, Goler, South Park, Tuber, Jail, Happy, and Surprise Canyons. Ballarat has a wide-open expanse for a campground.

PEACE SIGN: An enormous 1960s style peace symbol exists on the side of a mountain. The mountainside has not been restored to its natural state by DVNP officials. It is clearly a conversation piece, and provokes debate among folks with varied views. The amount of time and effort to construct it is unknown, but it was surely a dedicated effort by someone or group. It is plainly visible off in the distance to the north while driving the rough road that connects the Saline Valley to Steel Pass. A quick internet search reveals another such sign exists about two miles from Highway 190, south of the one on the Saline Range. The one north of the dirt Steel Pass road is far away removed from 190. Some folks believe that this sign degrades the natural environment, while others feel it is a message for civilizations of the future that tells of our present day ideologies, similar to the manner ancient cultures have silently communicated with us through petroglyphs, pictographs, and geoglyphs. This is but another emotionally charged topic on the spectrum of human debate, and contributes yet more to this Land of Legend.

PHINNEY CANYON: This canyon is in that large triangle we see on the map of Death Valley National Park that sticks out into the state of Nevada. We cannot get here from California (unless we walk) – we have to enter Nevada for quite a few miles of easy pavement and class 1-3 road first. Phinney Canyon is certainly off the beaten path. At the top of Phinney Canyon, we can look over the Grapevine Mountains section of the Amargosa Range, to the west down into Death Valley. This is a place of great solitude, like so many locales out here. On our way to Phinney Canyon, we must not miss Rhyolite. The road to Phinney Canyon is generally not a problem, but once we start gaining serious elevation in the canyon itself, that changes. It becomes quite tight and overgrown, leaving branch marks on the paint. At one point, there is a gigantic boulder on the roadbed, the size of an engine compartment, necessitating a careful drive-around. The upper reaches of this road require a high clearance vehicle with four wheel drive low range capability. At Phinney Pass, further travel is not allowed due to wilderness designation according to the National Park Service (although there is no signage). A road does continue on down the western side, but has not been driven for many years, and is so overgrown as to hardly be considered a road anymore.

PLEASANT CANYON: Just behind Ballarat townsite to the east, lies the road that travels up Pleasant Canyon, a wonderfully enjoyable drive of class 2-3 usually. Weather, of course, can up the ante to class-4 if a flood happens by. This trip is “just right” for the average backroad explorer, as it takes us from the desert floor of Panamint Valley to the high reaches of the Panamint Range crest, through pines and past mines. Clair Camp (site of the Ratcliff Mine) and the World Beater Mines are in here ready to explore. Many ruins still stand. At the summit (Rogers Pass) we are standing on the edge of the world, looking easterly down into Butte Valley to the south and Death Valley to the east and north. Lower in the Canyon are small stream crossings where the brush grows in tightly around the road. Wild burros live in this canyon, and are frequently seen foraging for food. If we have only one day, and want to experience the mining areas of the western Panamints, this drive is highly recommended, and can be done in just about any 4wd vehicle. It is popular though, so watch for occasional traffic. This road does not go through to the other side, however it does allow a round trip back through South Park Canyon, although a portion of South Park is not for the timid by any stretch of the imagination (it has an extremely dangerous place called Chicken Rock that has fatal consequences should a driver miscalculate).

PLEASANT CITY: In 1896, Bob Montgomery and his brother George began serious gold mining in Pleasant Canyon at their World Beater Mine, which brought increased activity to the area. As more miners and business people poured into the Panamint Mountains seeking wealth, they needed somewhere close to live while there. Three places emerged as camps for miners in Pleasant Canyon: Ballarat, Pleasant City, and Post Office Spring. Only Pleasant City was actually up the canyon near the mines, the other two down near or on the flat in Panamint Valley. Ballarat had the largest population, followed by Pleasant City. For miners staying in Pleasant City, they did not have to travel the six miles or so each day to access the mines, as those in Ballarat did.

PUPFISH: These little tiny critters are a favorite friend for many visitors in the Death Valley territory. The fish are about 1.5 inches in length, survive from the prehistoric era, and have adapted to water that is both fresh and salty. The Salt Creek pupfish, for example, live just north of Furnace Creek in water that is several times saltier than the oceans (different sources claim anywhere from 2-5 times the salinity). The Saratoga Springs pupfish in the southern end of the park may have life easier because the water is fresher and more voluminous. Salt Creek can nearly dry up during the summer months. Neither population is endangered, however, the Devil’s Hole pupfish population in Nevada is. Their population has reached such a critically low number that park biologists such as Linda Manning fear their extinction if the reason for their decline cannot be soon determined. About an inch long, these miniature creatures are easy to miss. The Salt Creek turnoff has a boardwalk that will take us over the water, making viewing easier if we are here during the early spring. Ancestors of the Salt Creek pupfish originally swam in Lake Manly many thousands of years ago, when the 80 mile long freshwater lake covered the floor of Death Valley to depths of 600 feet or more.

RACETRACK VALLEY: Here sits the famous Racetrack and Grandstand, where boulders weighing hundreds of pounds move across a dry lakebed. The long and washboarded 22 mile road from Ubehebe Crater to this valley is called the Racetrack Valley road. Please refer to “The Racetrack” and “The Grandstand” entries for additional knowledge.

RED AMPHITHEATER: This is the area past the road closure on the Hole in the Wall road. Even the Hole in the Wall itself is a grand sight, with soaring 400-foot walls. It is desolate feeling country out here, but close enough to the Furnace Creek visitor’s area that it is easily visited in a half day by anyone in a high clearance 4wd vehicle, or maybe even a 2wd on a good day. We must be willing to hike a ways to access the Red Amphitheater however, so it is a good idea to pick a cool day. We will not find too many other folks out here, as it is not so convenient as nearby Zabriskie Point. On our way back to Furnace Creek,  let’s stop in and see Echo Canyon just to the north, and the hidden Eye Of The Needle. Both attractions can be done in an enjoyable day.

RED CATHEDRAL: Named due to its inspirational qualities, reminding some of a church cathedral, a hike here will leave us inspired even if we are purely a person of science. High canyon walls, looming overhead, form yet another incredible location that will leave us awed, and the red tones on the 400-foot cliff, especially near sunset, only serve to heighten our disbelief. These red hues result from iron oxide weathering, what some would term rust. As with all the canyons of this immense and beautiful territory, water plays a continual role in the sculpting. The hike is not very demanding, and one we are sure to take if we are in Golden Canyon south of Furnace Creek. It is accessible by nearly anyone, requiring only a normal automobile and a love of hiking. We walk through a canyon with high walls at least 50 feet overhead. It is obvious how water has influenced this arid landscape. When it comes here, there is a lot of it, and it is usually moving very rapidly. Multiply that by several million years and we will easily see how this canyon was formed. The conglomerate material of Red Cathedral is thought to be deposited debris from primal alluvial fans.

REDLANDS CANYON: Just north of Goler Canyon, this canyon can be accessed by 4wd vehicle from the Striped Butte three-way intersection of dirt backroads. Manly and Rogers, the two young men who were responsible for the salvation of the Bennett-Arcan party, reportedly passed through this canyon on their quest for supplies, according to historian Leroy Johnson. Wood Canyon, an offshoot of Redlands, is the site of an old mining camp (this is not the same Wood Canyon that drains to Emigrant Pass). We will not come across many humans in Redlands Canyon, so it makes a great place to get away from the crowds. To get to Redlands Canyon, the same information applies as to Mengel Pass. It is easiest on the east side to come up through Warm Spring Canyon (class 2-3) from the floor of Death Valley.

RED PASS: On the backroad to Titus Canyon, Red Pass offers spectacular views at the summit, 5,250 feet above sea level. We must travel through a portion of Nevada to get here. The road is narrow and steep for a short bit just before reaching the top, with just enough room to pull off and park to enjoy the panorama. After descending the west side, it is not long before the old ghost town of Leadfield is reached, and then the petroglyphs after that. One drive through this remote section of backcountry will thrill even the most demanding natural world devotee. Many miles of class-1 washboard begin this journey from the Nevada side, followed by a very steep and narrow class-2 road to the summit, which is made easier with 4wd.

RED WALL CANYON: About sixteen miles north of Highway 190, on the paved road to Scotty’s Castle, is a real treat for the truly dedicated hiker. Many pedestrian types enjoy deep, very narrow, and very steep canyons, and Red Wall Canyon does not disappoint. This canyon is located in the heart of the Grapevine Mountains, part of the massive Amargosa Range that borders Death Valley’s eastern side. There are no roads into it, thus there are not many people who ever visit it. If we seek a secluded hike very far from the crowds, this will fill our order. There are a number of extremely impressive narrow sections in here, providing shade on the hottest and sunniest days, and the reddish tint seen in parts of the walls certainly adds to the primal feeling we get while snaking through and up this hidden chasm. As in most of this type of canyon geology, the walls often are smooth from the erosive events that form them. Keep in mind that we will encounter dryfalls in here that will stop the casual flatland hiker, as they require scaling if we wish to continue farther, but if we are up to the challenge, the rewards are ample. A loop could conceivably be hiked into Fall Canyon, which would likely require an overnight stay in a tent. Portions of this canyon would be considered difficult even for advanced hikers. The best way to approach it is to go as far as one feel comfortable, take lots of photographs, and then head on back to the car.

RHYOLITE: This was the gold town that really was supposed to make it! Actually, it was a full-fledged city, boasting all the conveniences of modern life of the early 1900s and a population of around 6,000 people (some estimates go as high as 10,000). Not the type as found in Panamint City of the 1870s however – these citizens were uptown respectable. They had churches, along with their stock exchanges. There were two railroads coming into the city, and one of the depots still is well preserved even today. Instead of rotting wooden structures like in other ghost towns of this region, we will find three-story concrete buildings. We can see the jail, and also the very famous bottle house, made almost entirely of old liquor bottles. Gold was discovered here in 1904 by Shorty Harris. The town took its name from the rock that contained much of the gold: rhyolite. Bob Montgomery became the area’s first millionaire here with his Montgomery Shoshone mine, after having made money with his World Beater mine in Pleasant Canyon, and then moved on to make even more in the Skidoo boom. Bob sold the Montgomery Shoshone gold mine to magnate Charles Schwab for a reported five million dollars in 1906. In 1907, the national financial panic took a toll on the future of this bustling town, and its population steadily declined until 1919, when even the post office had closed up shop, leaving only ghosts behind. This ghost city is located in Nevada, about four miles west of the present-day town of Beatty. We can drive in here in our sedans if we are so inclined (a short road of class-1 graded dirt, off of Nevada Highway 374).

ROCK ART: Some members of ancient cultures used rocks as a base for drawing pictures, and of course, this fascinates many people of modern times. When one stands and gazes upon a piece of rock art here in DVNP, it gives an unusual satisfaction to realize that another human being actually stood in this very spot and etched this picture that we now see. It is an incredible emotional link to the past that is only available to those who seek out these special places. It does not really matter whether the art was chipped into the rock for religious, historic, amusement, or graffiti purposes – what is important is that only elusive time stands between us and an ancient person who passed this way hundreds or perhaps thousands of years before. Their hands touched this very rock, their brains encoded a message of personal value, and now we are attempting to decipher it, standing on the identical spot where the artist stood. We can see these prehistoric rock drawings ourselves in commonly known locales as Marble Canyon, Greenwater Canyon, and Titus Canyon. Many other examples exist throughout the park. Some old dirt roads have been closed over the years to protect rock art because a few modern people have decided to add their own talents right along side. Death Valley National Park is not the place to be doing this sort of activity, since it has been designated as a preserve for all future people to enjoy unspoiled. Respect the Ancient Ones, and appreciate their silent communications to us.

ROOF OF HELL: There have been those who believed that Death Valley’s lowest reaches are the literal roof of religious hell. This notion was originally fueled from wild newspaper and book accountings of far fetched tales with descriptions of temperatures, terrain, and human deaths that could lead some to think that hell was indeed very near. At temperatures exceeding 130 degrees Fahrenheit, and with jagged salt spires in view for miles, the stage is certainly set in the minds of the gullible. One account even described how a preacher was able to hear the wails of the damned faintly originating from below the salt flat. Reality may be radically different, based on a number of things, including no verifiable accounts of anyone personally standing on the Devil’s Golf Course and hearing any moans of misery or screams for salvation. But of course, since scores of folks love the legends and lore of intrigue, they peppered this region with names that have their roots in deathly things and feared religious teachings, which only served to intensify the plot. Perhaps if we were walking across Badwater Basin on that relentlessly sunny day in July of 1913, when the temperature was over 134 degrees Fahrenheit with about 3% humidity, we may have thought we were in hell (or close to it anyway), especially since ground temperature typically exceeds the air by another 80 degrees. The only thing that is under the salt flat in reality is about 10,000 feet of earthen debris washed down from the surrounding mountains over eons, and beneath that is solid bedrock – souls, lost or otherwise, are not in the mix (or that is what science tells us at least).

RYAN: In the Greenwater Mountain Range, Ryan was a camp for those who worked the borax deposits of the area in the early 1900s. The Death Valley Railroad connected this mining area to the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad at Death Valley Junction. The borax shipments were quite noteworthy in their worth, far exceeding other mining endeavors that sought gold or other precious metals. From 1907 through 1927, Ryan produced $30 million worth of borax, more than any other mine of any other substance. So, if we want to see where the money was, come to Ryan! No more than 150 people ever lived in Ryan at any one time, and only a watchman remained during the hot summer months. Today, the townsite is on private land and not accessible.

SALINE HOT SPRINGS: Right in the middle of the very secluded Saline Valley are wonderful soaking springs, complete with campground, lush lawns, palm trees, and water temperatures in the low 100s. Several hot tubs are built into the ground. This has become a popular recreational locale since the second world war. Records of earlier usage are vague. Although the scorching summer months may not be the time of year that most would envision such a relaxing activity, these springs may be just the ticket in the middle of cooler winters, where snows blanket the surrounding mountains. The formal outhouse way out here in the middle of nowhere can be a lifesaver for brave travelers in such remote territory. It seems strange to find this hot spring oasis in such otherwise barren country. These springs are a long way from anywhere, and roads can range from class 1-5 depending upon which entry point we use, or if the weather of the moment or recent past has been wet and snowy. There are four roads in, and two are usually easy, but washboarded (North Pass and South Pass), and the other two are for experts only (Steel Pass and Lippencott).

SALINE RANGE: This range of mountains is bordered by the Eureka Valley to the east, and the Saline Valley to the west, and is in the northern portion of the park. The extremely remote and rocky backroad that leads to Steel Pass winds its way through the Saline Range before dropping down to the Eureka Sand Dunes from Dedeckera Canyon. This country is as remote as most people ever want to get, and brings profound solitude to those seeking peace and quiet.

SALINE VALLEY: In the northwestern corner of the park, this valley sees only a trickle of visitors compared to Death Valley proper because only dirt backroads access the valley, and the visitor must navigate one of four passes in order to get here. In the winter, it could actually be possible to get trapped in Saline Valley if a heavy snow falls after our arrival (high clearance 2wd vehicles are known to come to the area). The Inyo Mountains border the west side of Saline Valley, and saw their share of mining activities. Prior to the establishment of Death Valley National Park in 1994, the Saline Valley was outside the border of Death Valley National Monument, which was established in 1933. This immense region was added as part of the CDPA (California Desert Protection Act). The Saline Valley is technically referred to as a graben, a low area of land that formed due to the tectonic forces that formed mountains on either side. For many years, a military B-24 aircraft sat in the valley, after its crew was forced to make an emergency landing in 1944. The airplane was eventually dismantled and removed in the 1960s.

SALINE VALLEY SAND DUNES: In the rugged and desolate Saline Valley, are the small Saline Valley sand dunes. They are about 5 miles from the Saline Valley hot springs, near the intersection of the Saline Valley road and the road that heads to Steel Pass. If we venture on foot to the eastern side of these dunes, we can get some nice photographs of them in the foreground with the spectacular Inyo Range immediately behind. This looks especially great if shot in winter during morning hours, when snow blankets the Inyos!

SALT CREEK: Just about 5 miles north of Furnace Creek, we will find salty water pools. In these pools, we will find a type of fish not found anywhere else on Earth. At Salt Creek, they have adapted to live in water several times saltier than the ocean. Originally, they lived in a freshwater lake that covered this valley many years ago. These tiny pupfish are quite popular with tourists, but the humble little creatures go on, wholly unaware of their celebrity. While engaged in yearly mating rituals, some of these tiny fish fall victim to hungry birds, but enough survive each season to keep their numbers off the endangered species list. Early spring is a good time to visit.

SALT FLATS: Whenever we are high in the mountains of this territory, on either side of Death Valley, we often behold views of sprawling white expanses below. These are the salt flats, often called a salt pan, and in Death Valley the salty residue covers approximately 200 square miles, making for an impressive sight. Water evaporates leaving salt residue, which then cracks and produces many interesting miniature formations. If we have a penchant for great photographs, we will lie down out here to get the best pictures, with foreboding deformed salt in the foreground and inviting high forested mountains in the background. It is a fascinating contrast to be sure, and one that thousands of folks capture each year. The most common photograph of the entirety of Death Valley’s salt pan seems to be from the Dante’s View observation point in the Black Mountains.

SARATOGA SPRINGS: In the extreme southern portion of the park, at an elevation of 60 feet above sea level, these springs are influenced by water of the Amargosa River as it heads north into Death Valley. We can see the ponds all year long, and may be lucky enough to see migrating birds using the precious water for drinking, bathing, or just frolicking. As with any water-rich environment, be aware of any animals and respect their nests or habitat. Saratoga Springs consist of several springs that feed water to three large ponds, covering a total area of nearly seven acres. A rare fish called the Saratoga Springs pupfish lives in these waters, and nowhere else on Earth. Other creatures who call this home include Amargosa tryonia snails, Amargosa spring snails, Saratoga Springs belostoma bugs, Amargosa naucorid bugs, Death Valley June beetles, red-spotted toads, and Pacific tree frogs. Birds finding a regional home in these parts include the yellow warbler, the Cooper’s hawk, the western snowy plover, the long-billed curlew, and the long-eared owl. At one time, borax wagons hauled their minerals past these springs. It seems almost out of place to see Saratoga Springs in this barren-appearing country. We will find remnants of old structures here during our explorations, and an easy hiking trail allows us to examine a number of relics. Swimming in Saratoga Springs is prohibited, however, as it is a watering source for area wildlife.

SARCOBATUS FLAT: A large area of relatively flat land in Nevada, this 30 square mile region borders a portion of the triangle of the park that juts out into Nye and Esmeralda Counties. The Grapevine Mountains drain rainwater into this flat expanse, which begins about ten miles north of Beatty. Nevada’s Highway 95 also lies along the flat’s eastern flank, and Highway 267 cuts through the northern portion, on its way to Scotty’s Castle. The boom town of Rhyolite is separated from Sarcobatus Flat to the north by the Bullfrog Hills. An expedition of scientists in 1891, studying the wildlife of Death Valley, found 150 new species of animals, and ultimately gave the name Sarcobatus to the flat area that they found east of the Grapevine Mountains. The Shoshone people of yore had an annual rabbit gathering drive on the flat to obtain food, where large groups of people walked along and flushed the rabbits into an awaiting net. This unusual word, Sarcobatus, has a Greek ancestry, and means flesh bramble (sarko batos), and it is used now to describe the family of plants that include the greasewood bush. We may drive through the north-south direction of Sarcobatus Flat via a 26 mile class 2-3 road that cuts along its western edge. This road is not shown on all maps. The dirt road that leaves Highway 95, about twelve miles north of Beatty, crosses the southern portion of Sarcobatus Flat on its way to Phinney Canyon and Strozzi Ranch.

SCOTTY’S CASTLE: Accurately known as the Death Valley Ranch, the name of Scotty’s Castle took hold because a charismatic and extremely egocentric con man named Walter Scott led most people to believe that the desert mansion was his own. In the northern portion of the park in the Grapevine Mountains, this splendid structure began its existence in 1924 and had over two million dollars pumped into it before construction finally came to a halt. The impressive hacienda encloses antiques from Italy and Mexico, a Gothic styled music room, and an ambiance that is pure enchantment. It was owned by Albert and Bessie Johnson of Chicago, who visited during the winters. But Scotty generally remained in the area most of the time, telling tall tales of his gold mine underneath the castle. Scotty’s grave is on the hillside overlooking the mansion. Today, Scotty’s Castle is one of the park’s main attractions.

SEA LEVEL: Just about every visitor who comes to Death Valley National Park wants to experience what it is like to walk below the level of the oceans of the world. This is most certainly the national park in which to perform the incredible feat. The demarcation line for sea level runs from just about eight miles north of Stovepipe Wells village all the way south to a point about a mile north of where the Harry Wade road crosses the Amargosa River. At places, this vast area can be as wide as eight miles, such as near Salt Spring and Mormon Point, or as narrow as a fraction of a mile, such as near its southern terminus east of the Confidence Hills. Strange things live below sea level where there is no sea, like sharp dried spires of salt. We will also find tiny wild critters, such as the Badwater snail, the cute pupfish, and millions of extremophiles. Do not stop at sea level though! Journey another 282 feet lower and really get a thrill (be sure to wear sunglasses however, because the term ‘bright’ takes on a whole new meaning at Badwater Basin).

SHORELINE BUTTE: To see where waves once beat upon the vertical protrusions of the Earth, Shoreline Butte will oblige. It is in the southern portion of the park, not too far west from Shoshone (less than 30 miles), and is just west of the Ashford Mill ruins. When the Ice Age Lake Manly beat against its sides about 150,000 years ago, horizontal bands were left, and as the lake dwindled over the years, new band levels were cut into the sediment and stone. Imagine a massive lake covering the floor of Death Valley! It is thought that this lake was approximately 600 feet deep at its peak, based on the bands on Shoreline Butte and other park locations, although other estimates claim it may have been upwards of 800 feet deep. This would have made the Butte an island at the southern end of a lake anywhere from 80 to 100 miles long. Evidence of these waves can be found elsewhere in the park, but none are so clearly demonstrative of a giant lake as these. Other lakes have filled this immense valley during the past 10,000 years, but none so large as Lake Manly. These latter lakes likely had depths of around 30 feet. Early people were here during this period of the smaller lakes, and they may well have obtained plentiful water from them – for a few thousand years perhaps, until the current drying trend became so intense as to finally dry this area up for good (or at least the foreseeable future until the Baja Rift finally opens the flood gates to the ocean – of course, that is scientific speculation at this point).

SHOSHONE MUSEUM: In this museum, there are skeletal remains of a prehistoric mammoth that was found nearby in 1983 by university students. The building for this unique antique museum, which is located in downtown Shoshone, California, was built in 1906 in Greenwater during the copper rush. It was later moved to its current location in Shoshone after the copper boom in Greenwater Valley had run its course. Other uses of the building prior to the museum include: boarding house, hospital, general store, post office, private residence, rock shop, railroad stop, and even a gas station. In fact, there is still an old car parked out front where the pumps once allowed motorists to fill up for ten cents a gallon! Other exhibits include area mining history, geologic items of interest, history of Shoshone, and the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad. Another exceptional display area is the women’s history exhibit, which focuses on the untold and under-told stories of women in the Death Valley area. As explained on the website: “Although women appeared mostly as background characters in the history of Death Valley, they were actively involved in most major events that occurred here. The women were an essential part of the day-to-day workings of life on the desert.” This museum is a nonprofit organization that gladly accepts donations to further the cause of historical preservation. This little byway gem is a nice restful stop on your way into Death Valley National Park, and we can even step across the street to browse the Charles Brown gift shop later.

SKIDOO GHOST TOWN: Now, this was a town that really was rich in ore, and not some promoter’s pipe dream that soaked investors. Gold was found here, and lots of it. Purchased from the original founders by Bob Montgomery (of Rhyolite fame), the area grew quickly when Bob said his 23 claims even exceeded his million dollar Shoshone mine. Much of the gold was on top of the ground in this area, causing unheard-of excitement. Bob laid out 23 blocks in the new townsite, and wanted to call it Montgomery in his own honor, but the citizens insisted on remaining Skidoovians. Even the post office called it Skidoo in 1907. Lots on Skidoo Street ultimately were selling for $1,000 apiece. The national financial panic and crash of 1907 had a negative effect on many of the smaller operators, and even Bob had to scale back. Despite the riches of the area, eventually the 700+ residents began to leave, until, like all the other mining towns, even Skidoo was relegated to the history books. Skidoo can be reached by any 4wd vehicle, usually in 2wd all the way. A sedan can probably make the trip in good weather, however there is one tight spot near the end with a drop-off that spooks some folks. The town is gone, but the mine operations are still here and worth the visit. Plus, the views are quite spectacular.

SLATE RANGE: This mountain range lies between Searles Dry Lake at Trona and the Panamint Flat Dry Lake at Ballarat. Manly and Rogers, the two men who went for a heroic rescue of the Bennett and Arcan families stuck in Death Valley, reportedly crossed these mountains on their way to get supplies and help from Darwin French. Later, in 1919, Thomas Wright attempted to run a 28 mile monorail over the Slate Range to bring in epsom salts he was mining down near Wingate Wash. The mountains stood between him and the railhead at Trona, and they proved too much for any engine to power several tons of epsom salts over the grades.

SOUTH PARK CANYON: Miners used this canyon to access silver and gold mining claims in the western Panamint Range. It is a fascinating area to explore, and South Park Canyon hooks up to Pleasant Canyon via several miles of easy class 2 roads up on the ridge of the mountains. The views are spectacular and the mines are plentiful. However, there is a downside to this canyon. The mid portion of South Park Canyon is very hazardous and not recommended! In one spot, we must drive across a steel-framed bridge that can be quite unnerving to some to look down through the large open areas between the pipes to the rocky canyon several hundred feet below. Farther east up the canyon about a quarter mile, is another place that has repeatedly fallen away, and has been repeatedly repaired by enthusiasts of the area. We have only inches to spare on the cliff side, and if that is not bad enough, our inside wheels must pass over a huge protruding rock outcropping at the exact time we are at the narrowest spot, tipping our vehicle precariously towards the edge. It is most definitely a class-5 affair, and will cause fear in the most experienced drivers. It requires careful inspection prior to traversing, because if we slip off, we will likely not live to tell about it. Not only all that, but in that narrowest hair-raising spot, our outside tires are only on rocks wedged into place by people, not real ground, and we hope that whoever did it shored it up well down below. If we stick to the upper reaches of the canyon from the Pleasant Canyon side though, we will not have to experience all this nasty terrain.

SOUTH PASS: The southern entrance to the Saline Valley is easily reached from Panamint Springs on class 1-2 roads, for a very enjoyable drive through Joshua trees and fun canyons. We climb in elevation enough from the Panamint Valley floor that the temperatures are usually quite pleasant up here most of the year. It becomes relatively remote the farther we go, but it is quite satisfying. The views are expansive at the pass, and we can look down to the south and see the Panamint Dunes, Big Four mine area, Panamint Springs, the Panamint alkali flat, and even where Ballarat sits, although we cannot quite make it out, even with binoculars. To the north and west we see the Nelson Range and the Inyo Mountains. From this area, we can also continue on in good weather to Hunter Mountain, or on down to Saline Warm Springs. There is much to do here when it comes to backcountry exploring, and it can make for a couple of days of great adventure!

SPLIT CINDER CONE: If excited to take a short and level hike to a good example of a Death Valley volcano, then consider visiting out Split Cinder Cone, located 3.5 miles northwest of Ashford Mill and 1.7 miles west of the main paved road that comes south from Badwater. We can also access it from the West Side Road, south of the Warm Spring Canyon road. It is a low reddish hill in the middle of the southern portion of Death Valley. Split Cinder Cone is unique because it sits atop the Death Valley Fault Zone, and the two portions of the once-intact cone are now noticeably offset laterally by about 300 feet. Here is the finest location to observe the fault in the southern valley, and it provides scientists an opportune place where they can continually monitor with accuracy the movement of the fault zone. Earth movement along the Death Valley Fault Zone is negligible and infrequent, yet it slowly pulls apart the region of western Death Valley all the way to the Sierra Nevada Range from the land to the east – this movement is in a northwesterly direction. This phenomenon is called a strike-slip fault because one side of the cinder cone is being moved to the right relative to the other side of it. Sometime less than 300,000 years ago, molten lava and gas burst forth from this place, a sizzling spray of burning liquid rock that soared hundreds of feet into the air. Although the active time of this volcano was likely but a couple of decades, the fault on which it sits continues to move as it has for nearly three million years.

STEEL PASS: Only the most adventurous of the adventurous will ever drive over this pass because the road is extremely remote and arduous from either side, not to mention rough on the vehicle if the driver is not careful. The pass sits at a point where the Last Chance Range and the Saline Range seem to come together. The pass is roughly 5,075 feet in elevation, and not named on the AAA map (but it is named on the NPS map and Tom Harrison’s map). We will not see many (if any) people out here, and that is why this is really a special place for those who seek magnificent mountain and desert solitude. Narrows must be driven through to get to this pass from either side, requiring careful vehicle placement to avoid mirror or side-panel interactions with rock. The rewards of the area are worth the effort … in fact, the effort required to reach the pass makes it all the more special. The final stretch of road on the south side is quite tipsy and steep, and can prove unnerving to some folks. Experts only please. Expect class 2-4. Do not go with only one vehicle. This rough and rugged dirt road takes us through a wilderness corridor, which means that we cannot drive off onto any side roads, most notably at the summit, where a well traveled road heads northeast up the mountain to some old mines (we will have to walk if we want to see where it goes), and one other road about a mile north of the pass that cuts off to the northwest down a sandwash. The National Park Service enforces these closures, which were part of the California Desert Protection Act in 1994.

STOVEPIPE WELL: Practically around the corner from the tiny village of Stovepipe Wells (5 miles northeast), this original well is evidenced today by a rusty pump, and was critical for people living and working in the area before the automobile made access easier and safer. A wall for the well was made using old stovepipes. Here is what was said about this well in 1939, in the book California: A Guide To The Golden State: “ The water holes in this sandy waste saved many lives. Drifting sand often filled the holes, so the spot was marked by a stovepipe, now at Stove Pipe Wells Hotel.”

STOVEPIPE WELLS: Bob Eichbaum was the fellow responsible for this little desert oasis, Death Valley’s first tourist resort, and built a toll road to it in 1926. The toll road was his idea of paying for the road’s construction, and then having a continued income stream in addition to his resort. He was one of the first to see the promise of tourist dollars, and capitalized on the idea. The location was originally called Bungalette City (Bungalow City by some). At a mid-park location, Stovepipe Wells affords great views of the nearby sand dunes, and is just a stone’s throw from Mosaic Canyon, Grotto Canyon, The Devil’s Cornfield, and Burned Wagons Point. It is also the stepping-off place for Cottonwood and Marble Canyons.

STRIPED BUTTE: After exploring Goler Canyon and Mengel Pass, Striped Butte in Butte Valley is our next sight. At 4,773 feet above the oceans, Striped Butte is a wonderful block of Earth that uplifted to show off its intriguing bands of rock material. The striations that appear at angles were once horizontal, according to geologists, and then earthen upheaval slowly twisted the fractured rock into its present form. Prospector Hugh McCormack originally named it Curious Butte in the 1860s, but others thought that striped was more specific. This is one of those places where when someone says, “you can’t miss it”, they are right for a change. From the Death Valley side, it is class 1-3 dirt road up through Warm Spring canyon.

STROZZI RANCH: If we happen to be wandering around visiting Phinney Canyon, we might as well stop by the Strozzi Ranch while we are in this rather remote area. From the old ranch site, we will look up to see Wahguyhe Peak, at an elevation of 8,628 feet. Brier Spring is also up the canyon past the road’s end. This road to the ranch is on the eastern side of the Grapevine Mountains (Amargosa Range), and is accessible only from the Nevada side. Fuel the vehicle in Beatty. The homestead was created by a Swiss fellow named Caesar Strozzi in the late 1920s while he lived in Beatty, Nevada. It was his summer retreat. Caesar’s son still lives in Beatty. Today, the ranch is in the park, and has a very nice picnic and camping area near road’s end. The drive is a peaceful and lonely trip across Sarcobatus Flat, changing to beautiful canyonlands in the Grapevine Mountains. The main dirt road leaves Nevada Highway 95, 11.7 miles north of Beatty, and is unmarked. We must enter through a fenced gate, and close it after we drive through. Access to the ranch is also possible through the Bullfrog Hills west of Rhyolite, but if we do not want to bother with a lot of map-reading and a maze of dirt roads, it is best to choose the route off of Highway 95.

SURPRISE CANYON: This was a favorite exploration area in the late 1970s for adventurous folks in 4wd vehicles. Back then it was no worse than class-4 or maybe an easy class-5 in spots, but now it is closed to vehicular traffic due to flood destruction of the roadbed in the narrows, as well as a judicial decree of closure to vehicles. Surprise Canyon is returning to nature rapidly since the 2001 legal case. The hike up this remote canyon brings a powerful sense of serenity, and allows the hiker to imagine the amazing history that played its part in this very locale so many years ago. In the high mountain valley at the top of this canyon are the fascinating remains of Panamint City, with its huge brick chimney. A side road on the north side of the valley takes us up to very high elevation, probably over 10,000 feet, for absolutely breathtaking views to the west of Panamint Valley. Old roads on the south side of the valley take us up to a few old mines. If we wish to see this incredible part of history now, we must hike several miles up the canyon one-way from the Panamint Valley (not far from Ballarat), or come in from over the top on the other side from Death Valley, out of Johnson Canyon, which requires us to crest the Panamint’s backbone.

TEAKETTLE JUNCTION: This is one of the favorite places for adventurous tourists to photograph, even though it is just an intersection of two dirt backroads with an old wooden sign. In fact, it is precisely the old wooden sign that makes this place so special to many. Over the years, people have hung teakettles of every imaginable configuration on this old wooden sign, and whenever we come to visit for a few minutes, a photo is always in order. Take time to read the writing on the teapots too. If we go to see The Racetrack or Hidden Valley, there is a good chance we will come through Teakettle Junction. Class-1 extreme washboard road from Ubehebe Crater is the name of the game while driving in our vehicles. Slow going is needed if we want to be safe. Plan on one hour from Scotty’s Castle. For those who enjoy quaint junctions and crossings like this, a visit to visit Crankshaft Crossing in the northern park is also a must! Although, crankshafts do not seem quite so quaint.

TELEPHONE CANYON: This is a tight canyon with a huge rock formation that looks like a telephone. It is quite incredible. We can actually drive our vehicle under another large overhang on this road while on the way in. Since the Desert Protection Act in 1994, the area with the “telephone” is only accessible by foot, now classified as wilderness, but the hike is short for a regular hiker (about a mile round trip to see the arch). We can continue on up the road past Telephone Canyon to the Tucki Mine. A telephone line was placed in Telephone Canyon in 1907, part of a long expanse from Skidoo to Rhyolite, and this is where the name originated, yet it seems quite fortuitous that the arch also looks just like a telephone receiver. There may be no sign marking the entrance to this road from the pavement southwest of Stovepipe Wells, so it could be a real adventure safari just finding the place, unless we have Tom Harrison’s inclusive map. The potential also exists that flooding could obliterate the dirt road where it leaves the pavement, which happens some years, so drive slowly if trying to find this pleasing backcountry byway. Four wheel drive vehicles are recommended on this trek.

TELESCOPE PEAK: The grand-daddy of Death Valley National Park mountains, Telescope Peak is a hike that we will never forget if 14 miles of walking and 11,049 feet elevation do not stop us first. It is the park’s highest point, making visible the lowest point in America (Badwater) and the highest point in the contiguous United States (Mount Whitney). If we are a DVNP aficionado, we will be able to stand up here and say, “Oh, there is such and such” because there is not much we cannot see from the top. The ancient Shoshone called this peak “Mugu”, which means: pointed. Remember though, that it can get cool on the peak, even when it is hot in the valley over eleven thousand feet below, with a drop of roughly 4 degrees Fahrenheit for every 1,000 feet in elevation gain – that would mean if it is 120 degrees at Badwater, it could be a pleasant 76 up here. During the dead of winter, it can plunge below -25 degrees Fahrenheit up here. The road is class-3 up to Mahogany Flat. Then, it is hiking only the remaining 7 miles or so. John Thorndike, the fellow after whom they named Thorndike Campground, reportedly wanted to build a resort at the summit in the early 1900s. Fortunately, it never came to pass. This Peak was apparently named by Dr. Samuel George in 1861, although John Spears in 1892 reported that W.T. Henderson named it. Yet another mystery. After climbing to the summit, the men said that they could see so far that it reminded them of looking through a telescope.

THE GRANDSTAND: If we have a racetrack, we have to have a grandstand. It is here, on The Racetrack playa, but it is one of gargantuan proportion that rises to 3,781 feet above sea level. At the northern end of the lakebed is a huge outcropping of rock, 73 feet tall from the playa surface, that juts out of the flat ground, unusual in that there is nothing else like it to be found on the flat and vast playa. The Grandstand is a granitic intrusive igneous rock, called quartz monzonite. This type of rock is also found to the west near Ubehebe Peak, and to the east near the Lost Burro mine. If we sit atop The Grandstand with binoculars during extremely foul weather, can we watch the world-famous moving boulders? Well, not really, because they do most of their racing at the south end of The Racetrack, and The Grandstand is in the northern portion, a couple of miles away. For those who have a penchant for unusual photographic images, The Grandstand and The Racetrack deliver the goods, especially during early morning and late afternoon. A one-night’s stay at Homestake campground will allow image capture at both times. The same 20 miles of extreme class-1 washboard road from Ubehebe Crater to Teakettle Junction will be traversed to arrive here, but then add six more miles to The Grandstand.

THE RACETRACK: There is a highly intriguing playa, or dry lake bed, situated between the Cottonwood Mountains on the east and the Last Chance Range on the west. It sits at an elevation of 3,608 feet above sea level, is nearly three miles long, and just over a mile wide at its widest point. Called “The Racetrack” because of what happens here, the playa presents one of the most publicized and incredible mysteries of Death Valley National Park. Boulders weighing up to 700 pounds skate across this old dry lakebed, leaving gouged trails showing their paths, some over 2,800 feet – that is over half a mile! When they perpetrate this furtive movement, the lakebed is not so dry however, because rainwater covers this flat. Scientists believe that the playa becomes exceptionally slick when covered with water or ice, with the muddy playa surface underneath as a low friction medium over which boulders can move. Apparently, high winds up to ninety miles per hour do the rest. Most of this movement activity occurs at the southern end of the playa, and if we wish to witness the results ourselves, we will need to take a half mile walk out here on a dry day, as no vehicles are allowed. With all our modern abilities, the movement has never been documented by camera or beheld by human eyes, insofar as we know. This could be attributable to two things: First, the weather is dreadfully user-unfriendly during these times, and second, the rocks may not move so fast as to be noticeable even if someone were watching (from a distance of about a half-mile, because no one could actually walk on such slick mud or ice under these conditions). Scientists have however used GPS tracking of 160 of the rocks, and thus confirmed that the movements do coincide with the prevailing wind patterns of the area. The embedded trails of smaller rocks may recede into oblivion in just a single subsequent rainstorm, but it is reported that trails left by the large heavy boulders may last up to seven years. Another interesting fact is that the northern portion of The Racetrack is about two inches higher than the southern portion, so rocks moving towards the north are actually moving uphill. The easiest method of accessing this very special locale is by way of the graded Racetrack Valley dirt road, which takes off south from Ubehebe Crater. The main problem most folks have with this drive though, is that it covers about 26 miles of extremely washboarded road, requiring due persistence to bear. Perhaps the drive, which also causes many flats for people with P-rated tires, is part of what adds to the surreal setting, because not that many visitors actually make it out to this lonely and remote area. Plus, we get to experience the legendary Teakettle Junction on the drive out here – an added joy if we like bizarre oddities.

TIMBISHA SHOSHONE: Although most commonly known history of the Death Valley territory revolves around mid-nineteenth century and later miners and promoters, human history extends back to times before record. The Timbisha Shoshone people, who presently live within the park boundaries, trace their roots to ancient tribes that existed in the valley. They lived in mobile family groups that moved camp based on weather demands, populating the higher ground during hotter months, and moving to lower ground during the cold winters in the surrounding mountains. These folks lived in harmony with the land, and consequently, were able to successfully adapt and survive, unlike the later mineral wealth seekers who often met with failure in the same lands. You can visit their village today, immediately south of Furnace Creek Ranch.

TITANOTHERE CANYON: On the way up to Red Pass, on the dirt road that thousand of tourists drive to visit Leadfield and Titus Canyon, is a huge canyon sweeping off to the left and heading down into Death Valley. It is quite spectacular, and always demands a photograph from the road. It is called Titanothere Canyon, and it makes for grand and solitary hiking for the dedicated enthusiast of this region. In 1934, a paleontologist named Donald Curry found the huge fossilized remains of a titanothere jaw in this canyon (see the replica at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center). So, as we are walking down this incredible cut in the ground, let’s imagine rolling grasslands and forests, and realize that the only thing that separates us from coming face to face with a titanothere is time. They were here – now we are.

TITUS CANYON: Northeast of Stovepipe Wells, Titus Canyon is the park’s must-see attraction if it has not been washed out by a seasonal flooding event. Entry into this spectacular canyon is from Nevada, via a long stretch of class-1 washboard road, which then becomes more enjoyable. Red Pass summit is at 5,250 feet, and then the road plunges down into the canyon, passing Leadfield ghost town before it gets to the petroglyphs. The last 3 miles are the big draw, with canyon walls 500 feet high surrounding the road 10-15 feet wide. What we are seeing in this spectacular chasm is a cross section of rocks over half a billion years old! The gray rocks we see in the western end of Titus Canyon are ancient Paleozoic rocks that formed during a time when this place was submerged under tropical seas, an era when Death Valley was near the Earth’s Equator (Death Valley has come a long way … literally). This road can be driven in 2wd by most 4wd vehicles much of the time, but this canyon can change dramatically very quickly. Check with rangers on this one. A 4wd vehicle will make this trip easier, yet some folks make it in standard 2wd trucks or all-wheel-drive station wagons. This canyon was named after Edgar Titus, a young and daring gold seeker who met his demise in this area while attempting to make his fortune.

TOWNE PASS: The majority of travelers crest over Towne Pass when driving between Stovepipe Wells and Panamint Springs. Its elevation is 4,956 above sea level, quite a bit higher than Badwater’s –282 feet, which can present a problem for some autos. It is deceptive, even if we are aware of the altitude gain. The road, as we head south, appears to the eye and senses to be a gradual and easy upward grade of little consequence, where we can attain any speed we wish. Yet, in many vehicles, the transmission seems stuck in second gear, and no matter if we push the accelerator pedal to the floor, no greater speed can be obtained. A common feeling is that the transmission is nonfunctional, but such is not the case. It is steep and very long, and the vehicle is working to its capacity just to maintain a steady rate. The naming of this pass originated from a fellow referred to in history books as Captain Town(e), who was attempting to lead a group of men from Mississippi to the California gold fields in 1849. The group is reported to have headed up Emigrant Wash towards the pass in their attempt at escaping Death Valley. It was during this exodus of weary gold seekers from the valley that Jim Martin of another group found his piece of silver that set off the “Lost Gunsight Lode” frenzy later. This entrance pass to Death Valley National Park is one of the most traveled routes, and is designated Highway 190 and 178. It is the paved conduit that connects Panamint Valley to Death Valley, bringing in eastbound visitors. In 1952, a CIA aircraft crashed into the slopes of Towne Peak, and it is from the Towne Pass summit that hikers can make a grueling trek to still see the airplane today.

TRAIL CANYON: This great drive used to go all the way over the top of the Panamints and connect up to the road at Aguereberry Point. The road is still here, but has been closed by the NPS after flood damage one year, and has never been restored for use. Still, even though a great 4wd loop has been lost, this canyon is still fun and easy to drive, off the West Side Road, north of Hanaupah, Johnson, and Galena Canyons. The Tarantula Mine, deep within the canyon, produced tungsten during the Korean war years. There are still many mining artifacts in the area to be seen. Camping at the Tarantula Mine is favorable for larger groups. The road dead ends, as do most canyon adventure trails, so we have to come back out the same way we went in. It is mostly class 1-2, with some class-3 here and there (it all depends on the weather, as always). This canyon is not too far from Furnace Creek. If we camp out at the end of the canyon, we might wish to try a long hike up to Aguereberry Point, on an old road that no longer is open to vehicular travel.

TRAMWAY – GOLD: Around 1907, the owner of the Keane Wonder mine developed a unique method of transporting his precious gold ore along the precipitous drop of 1500 feet in the Funeral Mountains to the desert floor below. They built an aerial tramway that was powered by gravity, engineered so that the weight of the loaded gold buckets going down pulled the empty buckets back to the top, to be filled once more. This ingenious construction idea kept the price of production lower, and allowed more room for profit. Thirteen tram towers were designed to be the backbone of this project. To view the lower end of this amazing remnant, all we must do is travel north from Furnace Creek less than twenty miles in any type of vehicle. It is just over two miles on a good dirt road to the parking area, off the Beatty Cutoff road. From here, we can hike up the tramway route to the top, or we can use our 4wd vehicles and come in from the top on a more difficult 4wd road to Chloride Cliff. A recent closure of the Keane Wonder Mine has resulted in this area being off-limits for the foreseeable future – check with rangers if interested in a visit.

TRAMWAY – SALT: Around 1911 in the Saline Valley, the Saline Valley Salt Company was formed to commercially exploit the enormous salt deposits of the area. Over the course of two years, they built an aerial tramway nearly 14 miles long, from the Saline Valley, up over the top of the Inyo Mountains at 8,740 feet, and down the western side to a railroad at Owens Lake. Fifty-four miles of cable were necessary to carry the tram buckets full of salt. The tramway ceased being used in the early 1930s. Some of the tram towers are still standing for us to view if we visit the route. We can see the beginning of the tram route about six miles south of the Saline Valley sand dunes, on the Saline Valley road. The tramway terminus was at a point about five miles north of Keeler, on paved Highway 136 in the Owens Valley.

TUCKI MOUNTAIN: Thank this mountain and surrounding area for the tight, and incredibly scenic, canyon hiking trails, such as Grotto Canyon and Mosaic Canyon near Stovepipe Wells. Water run-off from Tucki Mountain leads to the torrents that form the amazing canyons and grottos downhill from it. Around 1875, silver mining was going full-tilt here, with Joseph and Jasper Nossano, two Italian immigrant brothers, being the most successful. They worked three mines on the Death Valley side of the mountain, called the Garibaldi, North Star, and Maria. Everyone believed this was the area of the legendary Lost Gunsight silver lode, but reality never seemed to reach their wild expectations. When we are in the area, a visit also to Telephone Canyon is in order. The mountain’s elevation is 6,732 feet above sea level, and its summit can be snowbound in the winter.

TULE CANYON: Here is a remote and scenic canyon we will want to explore if we find ourselves in the northernmost reaches of the Death Valley territory. It is not far west of the fascinating Stateline Mine, and can be readily reached by traveling a little over six miles east from Crankshaft Crossing in the northeast portion of Death Valley National Park. Tule Canyon lies just outside the park boundaries. There are many old abandoned stone structures and mines in the area, as well as an old stage stop and the ghost town of Roosevelt (complete with a very photogenic standing windmill and fenced corral). The western upper reaches of the canyon are tight, and if we go too early in the springtime, we are likely to find the road snowbound and impassible. From the western end of Tule Canyon, access to Cucomungo Canyon will be found. This is great wide open country out here, so plan on three days at least in order to explore it all. The road is exciting and fun to drive through the very remote and forested mountains.

TWENTY MULE TEAM CANYON: Surprisingly, the twenty mule team wagons never traveled through this canyon. The reason is simple … because it did not lead to where the borax-laden wagons needed to go to deliver their precious white powder. This canyon was one of several places that the borax kings, in order to adapt to changing times, took tourists eager to experience sights in the infamous Death Valley badlands. Today it is an easy drive on 3 miles of graded dirt road that even grandpa would not hesitate to navigate in his luxury sedan. It is said that we can hear the walls of the canyon expand and contract as the temperature changes. Fascinating.

UBEHEBE CRATER: This is certainly another must-see for most people. It is just a few miles west of the Death Valley Ranch (aka Scotty’s Castle). Of course, miners had nothing to do with it – nature did the impossible with a massive steam explosion that resulted from magma superheating water trapped underground. This extreme heat under pressure sent unimaginable amounts of rocky ground flying skyward at nearly 100 miles per hour, leaving a debris field up to 150 feet deep immediately surrounding the crater. This happened sometime between two to three thousand years ago, according to some theories. There is a very steep, and potentially hazardous, trail to the bottom for the avid hiker, but remember that we have to come out sometime, and that is when we will know exactly where our quadricep, gluteus, and calf muscles are located in our body. It is about 770 feet deep and over a half-mile across. There are other smaller craters here as well if we like to walk. If the wind is blowing here, which it often seems to do, we will have a difficult time communicating, although dust is not a problem. Accessing Ubehebe Crater is pavement all the way, unless we come in from Crankshaft Crossing to the north, in which case we experienced extreme washboards on the dirt byway. Less than 10,000 years ago, over a dozen volcanoes formed the terrain of the Ubehebe volcanic field. Ubehebe Crater is the youngest and largest manifestation of this field. Older layers of geologic past are now visible in the walls of the crater. The event that formed Ubehebe Crater is termed a hydrovolcanic eruption, meaning that molten rock heated water, which in turn caused the cataclysmic event.

UBEHEBE PEAK: Overlooking the mysterious Racetrack and Grandstand, and south of the Ubehebe mine, Ubehebe Peak attains an elevation of 5,678 feet above sea level. To the west is the Saline Valley, and to the east are The Racetrack and Hidden Valleys. Mining activity also occurred in the area. Hike to the top of this peak for some outstanding views of the surrounding landscapes.

WARM SPRING CANYON: This canyon leads to Butte Valley and Striped Butte from the West Side Road at the southern portion of Death Valley. It is about a 17 mile drive into Butte Valley from below, and on this class 2-3 roadbed, we will pass the Warm Spring mine. If we know where to look, we will even find a real swimming pool! This road is fairly well off the beaten track, and a 4wd vehicle would be preferable, although standard autos have made the trip when driven by very adventurous people. Anvil Spring and Geologist Cabin may also be accessed through this canyon.

WEST SIDE ROAD: This class-1 dirt road with a few washboards roughly parallels Highway 178 south of Furnace Creek, cutting off to the west just south of Mushroom Rock, and then rejoining the pavement again not far north of the Ashford Mill Ruins. We take the West Side Road to access several great 4wd roads, including Trail Canyon, Hanaupah Canyon, Johnson Canyon, Galena Canyon, Warm Spring Canyon, and Butte Valley. Out here, we can also see the spot where the stranded gold-seekers of the Bennett-Arcan party spent many an anxious day awaiting rescue out of the valley. From the north entrance, the road crosses the Devil’s Golf Course. If it has not rained for a while, this road is very easy to drive in just about any vehicle, and the history to be found along its route surely makes the drive worth the effort. Of course, the car will be extremely dusty after this drive, but then again, it is part of the exploratory adventure.

WHITE TOP MOUNTAIN: This mountain is out in the middle of nowhere, or the Cottonwood Mountains to be more precise. Camping here is the true definition of quiet, unless a military jet buzzes the skies above. If we’ve come here, we’ve already experienced either Teakettle Junction or Hunter Mountain, and we’ve had to get here via Hidden Valley (unless we hiked up from the east side of the mountains across from the Titus Canyon alluvial fan). A few mining remnants are scattered across the mountain, where they reportedly mined tremolite, a silicate mineral. One fibrous type of tremolite is used as asbestos, which can be harmful to human lungs. Near an old structure there is a white refrigerator sitting out in the sun. The area roads are fun to explore and easy to drive in any 4wd vehicle, or even a 2wd vehicle if the driver is adventurous and well prepared. We will cross the same 20 miles of extreme class-1 washboard from Ubehebe to Teakettle, but then it gets easier as mostly enjoyable class-2 through Lost Burro Gap and then on to the top of this mountain. Plan on spending a couple of days at least exploring all there is up here. White Top Mountain is just such a pleasingly secluded and serene locale that it is hard to leave. The miniature canyons on the drive up leave a lasting impression.

WILDFLOWERS: Along with butterflies, wildflowers emerge each spring to add gorgeous swatches of color to the many hillsides, alluviums, and valleys of the Death Valley territory. They result from the waters of the winter and also from the storms of the summer, filling in more heavily during times of greater precipitation. While there are occasional extreme displays that garner national attention, we can count on seeing them somewhere every spring around April, regardless of year. What draws the most tourists is when the areas around the salt flats of Death Valley proper get a significant crop of these flowers. There are over 1,000 plant species in DVNP, so the following list will be a partial one. For many folks, it seems incongruous to see millions of flowers in a land they have traditionally perceived as barren, so it always makes headlines when it happens in abundance. Even in drier years though, there are still wildflowers each spring. Gorgeous displays of them appear along the Wildrose Canyon road, and they can be seen also in the Panamint, Saline, Greenwater, and Racetrack Valleys. Come any spring to find wildflowers in different locations throughout the 3.4 million acre park, along with millions of butterflies!

WILDROSE CANYON: The road to Wildrose Canyon in the western Panamints is a popular route of discovery for many visitors to Death Valley National Park, and is a combination of pavement and graded class-1 dirt. It is the road we take to access the Charcoal Kilns, Wildrose Peak, and Telescope Peak, along with several campgrounds including Wildrose, Thorndike, and Mahogany Flat. The canyon is quite picturesque, with cottonwood trees shading parts of it, high rock walls in portions, and then as the elevation increases, the trees change to pinyons and junipers, and snow is often encountered in the winter and early spring months. We will pass through this canyon if we are on our way to experience the bristlecone pine trees on the slopes of Telescope Peak, a great hike to these old giants.

WILDROSE PEAK: Just north of the charcoal kilns of Wildrose Canyon, this peak is a great hike if we can still breathe at 9,064 feet elevation. The views are wonderful, and the natural solitude is breathtaking. Walking through forests of pinyon and juniper, this is a hike not to be missed if we wish to experience the Panamint Range up close and personal. It is pavement most of the way. Park at the Charcoal Kilns, or camp at Thorndike Campground.

WILLOW CREEK: At the western end of Gold Valley, water funnels into Willow Creek, also helping to supplement Willow Spring. This is a dependable source of water, and so when gigantic amounts of copper were said to exist in this region in nearby Greenwater Valley, a town called Willow Creek emerged here in Gold Valley, driven by the hype of riches. All this excitement and lure occurred during 1906-07, but nearly as quickly diminished once realistic understanding of the ore situation was finally gained. The Greenwater copper frenzy, along with reports of gold in Gold Valley, led primarily to hundreds of folks getting relieved of their money, with nothing in return but disappointment. Willow Creek can be hiked, but is very rough going, with dense thickets and tall rock ledges. It can be accessed either from the paved Badwater road (Highway 178) just north of Mormon Point, or from the class-3 Gold Valley road out of the Greenwater Valley.

WINGATE PASS: The famous 20 Mule Team freighters journeyed through this rugged pass from 1883 to 1888 on their way to Mojave from the Harmony Borax Works. The route was also used by the Eagle Borax Works as they hauled to Daggett, near present-day Barstow. Wingate Pass lies in the southwestern portion of Death Valley National Park, south of Goler Canyon, and at one time in the mid twentieth century, it was thought that a paved highway was going to be constructed through the pass to travel from southern California to Las Vegas, Nevada. Not only did that not come to pass, but the United States Navy made exploring the area impossible to all civilians when it claimed exclusive right to thousands of acres and created the China Lake Naval Weapons Center. Ambitious hikers could walk a portion of the pass until they reached the park boundary, on the other side of which is the forbidden military kingdom.

WORLD’S LOWEST GOLF COURSE: At 214 feet below the World’s oceans (give or take a few inches), the 18 hole, par 70 course at Furnace Creek Inn and Ranch Resort is reported as the lowest on planet Earth. This golf course was opened in 1931, and has been listed in Golf Digest magazine as one of America’s fifty toughest courses. So, for those folks who love to swing a club, hit a small white ball on manicured grass, and walk among the palm trees while beholding views not seen from any other course on Earth, this is just the place. Imagine the bragging rights we will have for all our other golf buddies when we return to the big city!

ZABRISKIE POINT: Not far south of Furnace Creek, this spot affords great views of uplifted yellow hills. Evidence of erosion is all around, in the form of Earth wrinkles. As with many locales, morning or evening provide some of the best lighting if we want the magic of the terrain to invade our senses. The point of Zabriskie is 710 feet above sea level. Nearly everyone who visits the park sees Zabriskie due to its central location and easy access. Manly Beacon, a pointed arrow of land, is visible in the distance. To the south of this viewpoint are the famous wrinkled badlands. A photograph from this point appears on the book’s rear cover.