Where to Sleep

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK CAMPGROUNDS & LODGING

“WHERE CAN I LAY MY WEARY HEAD?”

This is a national park, so places to sleep here are limited. If we are going to spend more than one day here, we’re going to have to sleep somewhere in this vast and magnificent country. The National Park Service has very strict rules  regulating where we may sleep inside the park boundaries. This page features quite a number of options worth considering. From camping primitively off the grid to luxuriating in the finest commercial accommodations, Death Valley National Park has us covered. Where are all these places? Read on, for they are revealed here:

Sunset at Mahogany Flat Campground, 8,133 feet elevation

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By hovering your mouse over the orange links, a small photo will appear.

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Campgrounds, Primitive Camping, Services, Motels, & Inns

CAMPING OPTIONS

Within the national park, there are fourteen popular campgrounds, from 196 feet below sea level to 8,133 feet above, from modernized to primitive, and from fee to free. In the primitive campgrounds, there usually are not many (if any) people, which makes for a camp of solitude. To view details of the National Park Service campgrounds, on their website, please click HERE. The following chart is from the NPS website, with information on 9 campgrounds:

Campground	Season	Elevation	Fee	Sites	Water	Tables	Firepits	Toilets	Dump Station
Furnace Creek	all year	-196′	$18**	136	yes	yes	yes	flush	yes
Sunset	Oct-Apr	-196′	$12	270	yes	no	no	flush	yes
Texas Spring	Oct-Apr	sea level	$14	92	yes	yes	yes	flush	yes
Stovepipe Wells	Oct-Apr	sea level	$12	190	yes	some	some	flush	yes
Mesquite Spring	all year	1800′	$12	30	yes	yes	yes	flush	yes
Emigrant (tents only)	all year	2100′	free	10	yes	yes	no	flush	no
Wildrose	all year	4100′	free	23	yes	yes	yes	pit	no
Thorndike*	Mar-Nov	7400′	free	6	no	yes	yes	pit	no
Mahogany Flat*	Mar-Nov	8200′	free	10	no	yes	yes	pit	no

* Accessible to high clearance vehicles only. 4-wheel drive may be necessary.
** Furnace Creek Campground becomes first come-first served and fee changes to $12 per night from mid-April to mid-October.

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The most popular campgrounds are Furnace Creek, Sunset, Texas Spring, and Stovepipe Wells because they are in the main tourist areas of Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells, and accessible by standard automobiles. Up by Scotty’s Castle is Mesquite Springs, at 1800 feet elevation. At Panamint Springs Resort, on the western fringe of the park, is a privately owned campground right off the pavement.

On the fringes, we will find Emigrant Campground at the intersection of Emigrant Canyon road and Highway 190. Farther south, on the Wildrose Road to the Charcoal Kilns, we will find Wildrose, Thorndike, and Mahogany Flat Campgrounds, at increasingly higher elevations of 4,100, 7,400, and 8,133 feet respectively. These are the coolest camps for hotter months because they are in the Panamint Mountains.

There are a few more campgrounds scattered still farther afield: One that few will use, called Homestake, is at the south end of The Racetrack Valley near the Lippencott Mine (a good one for those wishing photographs of The Racetrack boulders). Two more are found in the central Saline Valley, Palm Spring and Lower Warm Spring. At the Eureka dunes, in the far northern reaches of DVNP, we find another primitive camp, that is perfect for proximity to hiking the 680-foot dune field.

Furnace Creek camping has ambiance. The nice mesquite and tamarisk trees, with their wispy light green vegetation, make for a great desert feeling. This campground is open all year, is 196 feet below sea level (can get hot), and is just north of the Visitor Center. With 136 sites, there is a good chance we will find a spot. We will also find tables, water, flush toilets, fireplaces, a dump station, and access to all the countless activities available at Furnace Creek. It is handicap accessible.

We can reserve spots here for the winter season, but summer is first come, first served. Of course, that is all right because we will find dramatically less habitation here when it is 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is the most expensive campground in DVNP, currently at $18 per night. Yet even at that price, it is still considerably cheaper than many of the more popular parks and resorts. Like Sunset Campground and Texas Spring Campground, we will be in the middle of all the action here, with luxuries literally right around the corner.

We will be right in the heart of the action if we camp at Sunset Campground, and 190 feet below sea level (great in winter). This campground is central to many popular attractions, including the Harmony Borax Works, Furnace Creek Golf Course, Artist’s Palette, Natural Bridge, Badwater, Golden Canyon, and Twenty Mule Team Canyon. It is open October 10 through April 22 because the other times of year few people would ever want to camp here due to extreme heat. This campground is right next to Furnace Creek Visitor Center, where we have fuel, stores, gift shops, restaurants, museums, NPS services, golf, horseback riding, and most anything else we might need on the spur of the moment.

There are 270 sites at Sunset, with water, flush toilets, and a dump station. Fires are not allowed. The fee is in the neighborhood of $12 per night. It is handicap accessible. Any size vehicle can easily drive in here, as it may be described as a huge parking lot.

If we want all the conveniences, another option is Texas Spring Campground, because we do not have far to go to eat at restaurants, shop in stores, fuel our vehicles, get park information, play golf, or sit in the shade of a palm tree. This campground is in the hills above Furnace Creek, at the elevation of zero (sea level). It is open from October 10 through April 22, has 92 sites, water, tables, fireplaces, flush toilets, and a dump station. It is handicap accessible and only $12 per night (at last check). Many of the park’s main attractions are in very close proximity to this campground, which makes it a good choice for many travelers. Texas Spring Campground is not far from Sunset Campground, but a wee bit cooler since it is another 190 feet higher in elevation.

For each calendar year, there are limits as to the amount of time that we may camp in Death Valley National Park. Except for the 14 day limit at the Furnace Creek Campground, we may remain in the park up to 30 days per calendar year. If we came on December second, our thirty day limit for that year would expire by January first, but of course with the new year, we could perhaps spend another thirty days in the new calendar year, consecutive to the first thirty, making a total of sixty.

Camp fires are allowed only in fire pits provided in developed campgrounds. They are prohibited elsewhere in the park. Gathering firewood is unlawful. In two campgrounds, Mahogany Flat and Thorndike, camp fires are prohibited from June 15 through September 15 of each year because of the thick forests that are dryer in the hotter months, which presents a higher fire danger. When we are staying a few days out here, and want to have a camp fire, we must keep in mind that we are not allowed to construct new fire rings anywhere in the park. Use of existing rings in campgrounds where fires are permitted is the only option.

Water is available at all park communities, visitor centers, contact stations and museums. It is available at most campgrounds with two exceptions. Thorndike and Mahogany Flat Campgrounds do not have potable water due to their extreme isolation and high elevation in the Panamint Range. We should always bring our own water regardless of where we stay or where we go out here. It is wise to carry several gallons in our vehicles at all times, keeping our mind at ease.

For folks with motorhomes or campers in need of a place to legally abandon wastes generated during the normal course of human existence, the substance may be off-loaded at a few places in the region. This unwelcomed chore may be properly completed according to acceptable guidelines at the following campgrounds: Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells, Mesquite Springs, Sunset, and Texas Springs.

If in need of some things forgotten before leaving the big city, supplies can be purchased at Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells. At Furnace Creek, one can pick up such things as ice, groceries, and propane gas. Likewise, at Stovepipe Wells, we may acquire ice, groceries, and propane gas, but the supply options are not quite as extensive. Automotive gasoline is also available at both locations most of the time. The Panamint Springs Resort also carries a limited amount of supplies, on the west side of Panamint Valley. PSR also has auto fuel. Scotty’s Castle carries primarily gifts and snacks, but gasoline has not been available here for quite a long time.

A small public laundromat exists at Furnace Creek, which is centered in the southern area of the employee housing. It is within walking distance to the southwest of the Wrangler Steakhouse. There are several washers and large dryers here, but space inside the structure is very limited. It also gets plenty hot inside the little sun-drenched building. Bring your quarters.

Staying a while? Need a shower? For those who stay in motels, showers are provided, but for the rest of us who camp, other options do exist. For a small fee, we can use public showers at Stovepipe Wells Village and Furnace Creek Ranch.

The highest of all dedicated campgrounds at 8,133 feet above sea level, Mahogany Flat is our campground of choice if we plan on hiking to the summit of Telescope Peak, nearly seven miles south of the campground via a narrow mountainous hiking trail. This campground is free, likely due to its remote location on the crest of the Panamint Range and more primitive nature. It is open March 1 through November 30 of each year because snow often keeps it covered during the rest of the year.

Accessing Mahogany Flat Campground in a standard automobile is not recommended for any but the most adventurous due to the rutted, rocky, steep, switchback dirt road that can also be muddy or snowy. There is no fuel or telephone anywhere close, so come well prepared. At this campground are ten sites, aluminum picnic tables, and a nice concrete outhouse. What are the best parts of Mahogany Flat campground? The grand vistas of Death Valley and Badwater Basin!

Just down the road from Mahogany Flat, Thorndike Campground provides another place for hikers of Wildrose or Telescope Peak to camp prior to their summit assaults. In the winter, snow can blanket this area. Thorndike is just south and east of the charcoal kilns. It is a pleasant area, especially during the warmer months. If we want to visit Death Valley National Park in the summer, this provides a great base of operations if we like camping. The road is easy class 1-2, plus lots of pavement.

John Thorndike, a mining promoter of the early 1900s is the man behind the name. His dream was to build a resort atop Telescope Peak, but he only got so far as to erect some tourist buildings at the site of this campground. The NPS has successfully turned his cabin area into this current day camping area. This campground is free, about 7,400 feet above sea level, has six sites, tables, fireplaces, and pit toilets. The road can occasionally be a little rough if we have a standard passenger auto, especially if the clearance is low. This more primitive camp is open from March 1 to November 30. Fuel and supplies are nowhere close, so we must bring what we need.

Wildrose Campground is also free. The campgrounds that  are out in the hinterlands are less visited, with less amenities, and so the NPS charges no money to use them. This campground is in the Panamint Range, in Wildrose Canyon, and about nine miles from the famous Charcoal Kilns. There are 23 sites here, with tables, fireplaces, and pit toilets. The sites are more out in the open than the ones a little farther up the road at Thorndike or Mahogany Flat, where trees surround the auto and camp. This would be a great place to camp if we wish to spend some time exploring Aguereberry Point, the Eureka Mine, Harrisburg Flat, and Skidoo ghost town. It is not that far to Ballarat ghost town either. The elevation is just over 4,000 feet. Drinking water is also available here, something that we will not find at Thorndike or Mahogany Flat. Wildrose Campground is open all year.

If driving southbound up Towne Pass from Stovepipe Wells Village, and the car begins to overheat from the grade, swing in to Emigrant Campground and spend the night. It is about nine miles southwest of Stovepipe, on Highway 190, near the cutoff to Emigrant Canyon. Emigrant Campground is free, open all year, and sits at just over 2,000 feet above sea level (especially pleasing if it is 136 degrees on the salt flat below). This is a tent-only campground with only ten sites, water, tables, and, get this, flush toilets. No fires allowed, no fuel available, but great views to be had northward towards the sand dunes and northern Death Valley Wash area.

If we want a central camping location that is cooler than the Furnace Creek campgrounds, but  warmer than Mahogany Flat, and still close to all the main attractions, Stovepipe Wells is an option. Open from October 10 through April 22, this campground is close to sea level, with 190 sites, water, tables, fireplaces, flush toilets, and a dump station. From here, we can readily access Mosaic Canyon, Grotto Canyon, Cottonwood Canyon, Marble Canyon, sand dunes, Salt Creek, and other slightly more distant locales. Also here we will find gasoline, a general store, telephone, motel, and restaurant. Fees are minimal ($10 per night last check), and it is handicap accessible.

If we want to camp out near Scotty’s Castle and Ubehebe Crater, Mesquite Springs Campground is our place. It is about five miles away from Scotty’s, about eight miles away from Ubehebe, and a world away from typical civilization. The elevation is around 1,800 feet above sea level, on the western side of Death Valley Wash, and on the eastern slope of the Cottonwood Mountains in the northern third of the park. This campground is open all year, and has 30 campsites with water, tables, fireplaces, flush toilets, and a dump station. Yes, this is a pay campground, but the fees are minimal ($12 currently). It is generally much cooler here than at Furnace Creek to the south, a welcomed relief during the hotter months. This campground is accessible by standard automobiles on a two-mile graded dirt road. Nearest fuel is now at Stovepipe Wells, since Scotty’s Castle no longer carries any.

It’s a long way out here, and if we’ve come to see the moving boulders at The Racetrack late in the day or early in the morning for the best photo opportunities, then we may want to consider camping out at Homestake Camp so that we do not need to drive back until tomorrow. Homestake is a very primitive campground with an outhouse, not far from the historic Lippencott Mine. It is a couple of miles south of The Racetrack playa. We should have plenty of quiet and privacy in this small valley lined with mountains to the east and west.

To leave the camp, we can take either the Lippencott Road (class-3 or harder) into the Saline Valley, the Hunter Mountain road (class 2-3 if it is dry), or the Racetrack Valley Road (class-1 with severe washboards) north to Ubehebe Crater. Homestake Campground is very remote with no trees, a typical quiet desert atmosphere. Expect a tranquil setting – unless a military warbird happens to buzz the deck, which is not uncommon out here.

Right in the middle of the very secluded Saline Valley are wonderful soaking springs, complete with campground, lush lawns, palm trees, and water temperatures in the low 100s. Several hot tubs are built into the ground. This has become a popular recreational locale since the second world war. Records of earlier usage are vague. Although the scorching summer months may not be the time of year that most would envision such a relaxing activity, these springs may be just the ticket in the middle of cooler winters, where snows blanket the surrounding mountains. The formal outhouse way out here in the middle of nowhere can be a lifesaver for brave travelers in such remote territory.

These springs are a long way from anywhere, and roads can range from class 1-5 depending upon which entry point we use, or if the weather of the moment or recent past has been wet and snowy. There are four roads in, and two are usually easy, but washboarded (North Pass and South Pass), and the other two are for experts only (Steel Pass and Lippencott). When we drive in to the campground area, we will see a large sign that reads: “Bare Crossing.” Clothing is optional. Experience reveals that most folks seem to wear swimming attire. The hot pools in the ground, amid idyllic and non-indigenous palm trees, are the site where hundreds visit yearly to soak in seclusion and desert dreaming.

A very remote and delightfully primitive campground exists at the area’s largest dune field. Eureka sand dunes are singing dunes that can be heard when conditions of humidity and wind are just right. They are a National Natural Landmark, nearly 700 feet to their highest point, and covering about three square miles. There is a primitive campground on the northern side of the dune field. Three types of unique plants live here, being found nowhere else. They are the Eureka Dune Grass, Eureka Evening Primrose, and Shining Locoweed.

The enchanting Last Chance Range borders the dunes on the east. Easy, but bumpy, 2wd access is obtained via a very washboarded dirt road from the north, or via a rough and challenging 4wd dirt road from the south through Dedeckera Canyon. For those who insist on solitude, these dunes answer. Not many people venture out and camp this far from civilization, which is a good thing for loners who seek the natural world in all its glory.

Many rugged folks strike out independently into the remote backcountry to hike and camp on foot. To access primitive camping areas where it’s just nature and us, we almost always use a car, as the distances are so utterly vast in this isolated region. So, we must leave our vehicle unattended for some period of time during our hikes to primitive camps. The National Park Service has a 24 hour rule, after which a vehicle may be impounded, unless we are legitimately off hiking, backpacking, or camping in the backcountry. They allow our vehicles to remain unattended for more than 24 hours in an area other than a developed campground when the driver is off camping and intends on returning immediately after the trip. Some folks leave a note visible through the windshield explaining their whereabouts and return time – an excellent idea should one become injured and need assistance.

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DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK REGULATIONS

(official things you should know)

1) Camping is permitted in developed campgrounds and some backcountry areas. Backcountry camping is allowed two miles away from any developed area, paved road, or “day use only” area. Camp only in previously disturbed areas and park your vehicle close to the roadway to minimize impact. Backcountry campsites must be more than 100 yards from any water source to protect these fragile areas for wildlife use.

2) Camping is not allowed on the following “day use only” dirt roads and areas: Titus Canyon road, West Side road, Wildrose road, Skidoo road, Aguereberry Point road, Cottonwood Canyon road (first 8 miles), Racetrack road (from Teakettle Junction to Homestake Dry Camp), Keane Wonder mine, Lost Burro mine, Ubehebe Lead mine, and the valley floor from Ashford Mill in the south to 2 miles north of Stovepipe Wells.

3) Off-road driving is strictly forbidden to protect the extremely fragile desert ecosystems. The desert environment is slow to recover from vehicle damage. Use only approved roads.

4) Campfires are prohibited, except in fire pits in developed campgrounds. Gathering wood is unlawful and burning of wood is not allowed in the backcountry. Use of a low impact backpacking stove is encouraged.

5) Pets are not allowed off roads, on trails, or in the wilderness areas of the Park.

6) Removal or disturbance of rocks, historic artifacts, plants, or animals is prohibited. Death Valley is considered an “outdoor museum” so please leave the Park undisturbed for others to enjoy.

7) The use of metal detectors is prohibited.

8) Weapons are strictly prohibited. This includes firearms, air guns, bow and arrows, slingshots, and other similar weapons.

9) Burying garbage is not allowed. Wild animals will dig it up as soon as you leave. Either place it in a proper garbage receptacle or pack it out with you. Human waste should be buried more than six inches deep and more than 200 yards from any water source if no toilet is available.

10) Please respect all private property including the many patented mining claims in the Park.

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Furnace Creek Inn garden walk

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MOTEL & INN OPTIONS

There are several options available in Death Valley National Park for folks who prefer not to sleep on the ground in a tent, or don’t have a motorhome with them. If we need a room when it comes time to call it a day, we will find plenty of them, and pretty close to the most popular tourist attractions too.

Operated by Xanterra Parks and Resorts company, Furnace Creek Inn and Ranch Resort is a popular tourist destination accessed by thousands each year due to its oasis-like qualities in the middle of a rather hostile appearing terrain, over 200 feet below sea level. Palm trees abound, water is plentiful from Furnace Creek, and numerous recreational opportunities exist for folks who prefer to remain closer to a more civilized feeling.

At Furnace Creek, we can take a horse ride, swim in two pools, eat at fancy restaurants, shop in well stocked gift stores, play golf on the world’s lowest course, visit a museum, listen to ranger talks, learn about the history of Death Valley, take a hike, or drive the backroads. There are many varied activities to keep us busy!

Here is what the resort has to say about itself, from their WEBSITE: “The Furnace Creek Inn & Ranch Resort is situated in a lush oasis surrounded by the vast and arid desert of Death Valley National Park, California – just 120 miles northwest of Las Vegas, Nevada and 275 miles northeast of Los Angeles, California. This is one resort with two hotels – the historic, 4-diamond, 66 room Furnace Creek Inn and the more family oriented 224 room Furnace Creek Ranch. This resort presents a complete contrast to the desolate desert landscape and consists of an oasis 18-hole golf course (the world’s lowest course at 214 feet below sea level), four restaurants, a saloon, a cocktail lounge, retail outlets, a Borax Museum, spring-fed swimming pools, tennis courts, horseback riding, horse-drawn carriage rides, a children’s playground, massage therapy, a 3,000-foot airstrip, a service station and conference and banquet facilities for 10 – 120. (Some services are available only on a seasonal basis.) Furnace Creek Inn & Ranch Resort is the perfect vantage point from which to explore Death Valley National Park!”

Not a far drive northwest of Furnace Creek (about 24 miles more or less by pavement), but a world away when it comes to temperature, is the Stovepipe Wells Resort. Here we will find a great restaurant, swimming pool, motel, general store, gasoline station and campground. Here is what the resort has to say about itself, from their WEBSITE:

“Discover Stovepipe Wells Village and uncover the unusual. At Stovepipe Wells Village, we will be treated to the unforgettable – like the beautiful Mosaic Canyon, the ghostly, gold-town ruins of the once prosperous Rhyolite and the startling Charcoal Kilns, that look like 25-foot beehives. We can also head over to Dante’s View for a look at the lowest and highest points in the contiguous U.S. and tour Scotty’s Castle. Stovepipe Wells Village offers swimming on-site with plenty of hiking in adjacent areas. Also, on property are the Stovepipe Wells Ranger Station and Stovepipe Wells Airstrip, available for private planes. Breathtaking Mosaic Canyon, just behind Stovepipe Wells, offers a view of surrealistic sand dunes — the most photographed sand dunes in the world.”

Now, for those who prefer things just a little more rustic than at Furnace Creek Resort or Stovepipe Wells Village, mosey on over to Panamint Springs on the western fringes of the national park. The old-west ambiance is alive and well here, and makes for a wonderful spot to enjoy balmy desert evenings sitting on the front porch. It is on Highway 190, 48 miles east of Lone Pine, and 31 miles west of Stovepipe Wells Village.

We can camp at Panamint Springs Resort, stay in rustic rooms, eat tasty meals, and fuel our vehicles for the long road trips out here. The atmosphere is pure western, and from the front steps we can see the sprawling Panamint Valley, Panamint Mountains, and majestic Telescope Peak. We will feel relaxed on the old wooden front porch, as we sip our brews and enjoy the waning hours of daylight. The food in the restaurant portion is quite tasty after a hard day of exploring, and the photographs that adorn the walls are absolutely stunning! Visit their WEBSITE.

If we wait to purchase bottled water here in gallon jugs, we can expect to pay much more than the big city price, yet if we become stranded in the desert, water will be worth its weight in gold! The folks here at Panamint Springs may even pull our stuck vehicle out of the mud on Hunter Mountain in the unlikely event that we make a big driving judgment error (of course, it will cost a penny or two).

Not too far southeast of Furnace Creek, for those who seek a different kind of feeling, and perhaps want to indulge in some cultural pursuits, is the Amargosa Opera House and Hotel. Marta Becket, a talented and well known ballet dancer, has performed at this opera house for many years. It is located in Death Valley Junction, just a few miles east of Death Valley National Park.

Here is a little text from the website amargosa-opera-house.com: “A once in a lifetime experience awaits you in a tiny town known as Death Valley Junction, for this is the home of the Amargosa Opera House and Hotel. For more than 35 years, Marta Becket has lived and shared her art and dreams with those fortunate enough to find this wonderful and magical place. Located a few miles west of the California-Nevada border, near Death Valley National Park, no journey to this part of the world would be complete without a visit to this unique and inspiring destination.”

For $15 adult and $12 child, Marta’s  performance is still an option, a tradition that started in 1968. This dance and performance, with an ambiance not quite found anywhere else on Earth, this is worthy of a visit. A motel is available for a modest fee, but to eat at a restaurant or fuel the vehicle, one must travel 7 miles north to the Nevada State line. Marta and her husband came here from New York in 1967 for a visit, had a flat tire, and stopped at the abandoned Amargosa Hotel to have it fixed. Finding an old theater in one of the buildings, Marta’s future revealed itself to her. The rest is history, as the saying goes. Of her dancing here, she says: “I am grateful to have found the place where I can fulfill my dreams and share them with the passing scene…for as long as I can.”

For those who don’t mind driving for their rooms, many luxurious options exist in the small town of Beatty, Nevada, to the east of Death Valley National Park. This might be a desirable option for people who wish to drive through Titus Canyon the next morning, as the dirt road to Titus is on paved Nevada Highway 374 that connects the park to Beatty.