Wild Animals

ANIMALS OF DEATH VALLEY

Following are a few entries from the Death Valley Book Of Knowledge (DVBOK) regarding animals found in the Death Valley territory. Items are listed alphabetically for convenience.

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AMMONITE: These extinct marine animals can be found in the primal lands here, and they provide scientists a means of determining the age of the rock layer in which they are located. Ammonite shells resemble the classic nautilus shape, a spiral shell that becomes progressively and mathematically tighter towards the center, a Fibonacci spiral that is observed in galaxies. It is theorized that ammonites became extinct with the dinosaurs, leaving an extensive fossil record across the countryside and around the entire planet. Scientists note that the nautilus shape of the fossils, found extensively throughout nature, is very pleasing to the human eye for some reason. The chambers of the inner shell were used to add water or air as needed for the animal to rise or fall in the sea. Only the largest chamber at the open end was used by the creature for living, and as it grew, it added another chamber to accommodate its increased size. These fossils can range in size from very tiny to as large as six feet across, although the ones in Death Valley National Park are not that large. A good place to witness excellent ammonite fossils up close is Bighorn Gorge, where they are found in the walls in sizes up to four inches. One can still see the buoyancy chambers well preserved.   

AMPHIBIANS: Amphibians are unique creatures that live both in the water and on land, and their body heat is regulated by the environment, rather than internally like humans experience. They breathe using lungs, gills, or through their skin. In this national park are the following amphibians: the Inyo Mountains slender salamander, the red spotted toad, the western toad, the Pacific treefrog, and the bullfrog. Amphibians will serenade any overnight campers at the road’s end of Johnson Canyon in the Panamint Mountains, a place of sufficient steam activity to allow for a rich habitat for frogs.

ANIMALS: According to the book, “Smithsonian Guides to Natural America, The Far West”, wildlife is abundant in the Death Valley territory, with “close to 400 species, including 290 bird species, 57 mammals, 36 reptiles, 3 amphibians, and 5 species of pupfish.” Hence, it becomes obvious that we are not alone. Most are nocturnal, taking advantage of the cooler nights. Bighorn sheep are possible at Willow Springs and other remote and higher elevations, and pupfish are a potential sight at Salt Creek, Saratoga Springs, and Devil’s Hole. Some animals will have separate entries throughout this encyclopedia. Just driving the highways out here, one may be inclined to conclude that there are not many animals … but get off the beaten path and into some secluded canyons of the backcountry, and a new perspective will come to life. Around campgrounds, coyotes, roadrunners, crows, lizards, and maybe even a fox can be seen at times. Of course, animals existed prior to these modern varieties currently found here.

BADWATER SNAILS: These endangered creatures live in Badwater Basin under the salt crust, and can easily and unwittingly be killed by visitors who step on the moist ground under the water. The snails feed on algae in the salt. Stepping carefully in this landscape is a recommended practice.

BAT: If they are personally frightening, do not camp by mineshafts or old structures because they come out around sunset and later each evening. These are cute little critters, who silently glide through the air, using radar to scope out their evening prey, which, to our delight is mosquitoes (among other bugs). We all detest mosquitoes, so when the food chain claims their frail bodies using the bat nourishing routine, we can all be happy to camp in areas with large bat populations. The bats are our friends! Bats are the only mammals on Earth that can actually fly (as opposed to gliding, which some squirrels do). Nearly three quarters of bats are insectivores, while others eat fruit, and rarer still is the variety that consumes blood. Bat gates are metal gratings or fencing installed over the openings of dangerous mine shafts. The bat gate serves two important purposes. First, it keeps humans from accidentally falling into deep mine shafts or walking into a mine with weakened timbers, unseen glory holes, or poisonous gases. Second, the gate allows bats and other wildlife to enter the opening for housing purposes or as an escape from hot summer sun. Bats live in old mines, and come out each evening for dinner. Snakes, lizards, and other creatures use the cool shade during the day. A 1984 visitor fell 30 feet into a mineshaft and died. The National Park Service is currently attempting to install these gates as financially able. Budgets are tight, and each bat gate system comes with a price tag around the two-grand mark.

BIGHORN SHEEP: Owing to their desire for the most remote places far from people, most folks will likely never see these animals. There are reportedly more than 500 sheep in the park, with some estimates over 1400. It is believed that their numbers were dwindling during the mining phase of the Death Valley region, but that with the cessation of mineral operations, they are rebounding. Word has it that one reason for eliminating the wild burro population in the park is because the indigenous sheep are losing their food sources to the burro population. These animals survive by spending significant time in the forests of the mountains, and they prefer pinyon, juniper, and bristlecone pine trees. Bighorns can live for several days without water. To observe these unique animals requires a continually watchful eye on mountain slopes, and a good pair of binoculars may also come in handy.

BIRDS: There are many different types of birds that can be found in Death Valley National Park, some frequently and others rarely or by accident. For bird aficionados reading this, the main types of birds will be listed here, but not the specific kinds, as there are so many (visit nps.gov/deva and click on the nature/science link to learn them all in detail): loons, grebes, American vultures, kites, hawks, eagles, harriers, avocets, stilts, plovers, sandpipers, owls, nightjars, swifts, hummingbirds, kingfishers, larks, swallows, jays, magpies, crows, titmice, verdins, bushtits, gnatcatchers, kinglets, pipits, waxwings, silky flycatchers, shrikes, starlings, vireos, weaver finches, blackbirds, orioles, pelicans, cormorants, herons, egrets, bitterns, storks, ibises, swans, geese, ducks, osprey, falcons, quail, partridge, cranes, rails, gallinules, coots, phalaropes, gulls, terns, pigeons, doves, cuckoos, roadrunners, barn owls, woodpeckers, tyrant flycatchers, nuthatches, creepers, dippers, wrens, mockingbirds, thrashers, thrushes, solitaires, wood warblers, tanagers, finches, and sparrows. Not all of these birds are common, some being quite rare. Quoted from the website is this explanation: “Death Valley is one of the most impressive ornithological biomes in the National Park System. There are several factors that result in Death Valley’s long bird list. As one travels from the low valley desert, up the canyons, through the pinyon-juniper woodlands and onto the high boreal peaks, climate and vegetation changes are obvious. This wide diversity of habitat leads to a subsequent diversity in bird species. Death Valley and other valleys in the park are long north-south troughs just east of the Sierra Nevada range. Migratory birds are channeled into these valleys and stop at its desert oases and mountains.”

BOBCAT: The bobcat, also known as the lynx, is a carnivorous North American mammal, ranging from Mexico to Canada, and frequently seen in the mountains surrounding Death Valley. It is a member of the cat family, and but for its pointed ear tufts, short bobbed tail, and huge size, could easily be mistaken for the common house cat due to its identical mannerisms. Like many cats, bobcats are independent and often solitary. They dine on rabbits, rodents, small animals, and even antelope. These animals are most active in their hunting at dusk and dawn, a phenomenon scientifically known as crepuscular. The typical lifespan for a bobcat is eight years or so, with some lucky enough to hit age ten. Longevity records for bobcats currently report a wild lifespan record of 16 years, and a captivity lifespan record of 32 years. Bobcat kittens usually come in groups of two to four, in the spring of the year, being born in a hollow log or small cave of a forested area. The only major predator for a bobcat is the human. Early American mythology includes tales of bobcats and coyotes in an interwoven relationship.

BURRO: Commonly known as a donkey, the burro descends from the African Wild Ass, being first domesticated roughly 6,000 years ago because they can carry up to 30 percent of their own bodyweight. Burro is a regional naming of this animal in the American west. President George Washington imported the first animals to America from France and Spain. It was during the American mining booms of the 1800s that these beasts of burden became popular with prospectors and miners for their abilities, and this led to the rapid spread of burros across the west. Burros remain plentiful in and around Death Valley National Park today, as artifacts of the mining here. They are wild, and thrive in canyons of the Panamint, Amargosa, and Last Chance Ranges, as well as in areas such as Lee Flat. Burros are considered an exotic species, one that is the result of direct or indirect actions of humans. As managers for the area’s preservation, including the cultural and historical aspects, the National Park Service attempts to provide a delicate balance. The naturally multiplying numbers of burros have spiraled upwards over the years, resulting in debate as to whether they are consuming precious food resources that are needed by the native bighorn sheep population. As such, official governmental efforts have been brought to bear to mitigate this trend, by implementing potential solutions. Over the years, starting in 1933, several strategies have been used to eliminate burros from this region, one of which sparked public outcry: the shooting of the animals. By 1986, nearly 6,000 burros had been removed alive. By the late 1990s, the burro population had been reduced to less than 600, from one that had formerly been in the thousands. DVNP has worked for many years with animal protection groups in an effort to have the animals collected and adopted by the public. As stated by the National Park Service in the official GMP: “In 1995, a volunteer burro protection group began removing burros via live capture in lieu of the Park’s removal policy. The Park has not abandoned its existing plans for burro removal with the old monument boundary, but has suspended its own removal plans while the volunteer group’s efforts are underway. This group has removed about 20-30 burros per year.”

BUTTERFLIES: Along with wildflowers, butterflies appear each spring to signal the emergence of springtime in the desert and mountains. During April in particular, we can see thousands of them here and there in areas awash with newly sprouted wildflowers. While driving through such flourishing clusters of butterflies, it is necessary to implement a significant reduction in the speed of our automobiles to avoid harming them, as they can literally fill the air in front of the car at times. It is quite amazing to witness!

CHUCKWALLA: These are large vegetarian lizards that live in this region, eating plants with high moisture content to remain hydrated. Enough water is absorbed through its diet to sustain it even in the extreme temperatures.  This animal must regulate its body temperature by staying out of the sun on exceptionally hot days. The chuckwalla retreats to shady crevices in rocks during the hottest times, and if a predator attempts to dislodge it, the lizard can inflate its lungs up to three times their normal size so that it is wedged tightly against removal from its sanctuary.

COLUMBIAN MAMMOTH: A prehistoric ancestor of the modern elephant, Columbian mammoths roamed the North American continent during the late Pleistocene epoch, a time period that spanned from 1.8 million years ago to as recently as ten-thousand years ago. The Columbian mammoth finally disappeared around the end of the last ice age. Theories speculate that these gigantic mammals may have become extinct due to environmental changes, disease, and hunting by humans for food. These creatures averaged 13 feet high at the shoulders, and would eat roughly 300 pounds of vegetation daily. They may have weighed six tons, with the head accounting for about a fourth of the total bodyweight. Curved tusks could measure six feet long. A Columbian mammoth skeleton was found well-preserved in the Death Valley territory.

COYOTE AND ROADRUNNER: These two critters are traditionally adversarial in their relationship to one another, yet during summer months around Furnace Creek, we may see them coexisting in close proximity and peaceful harmony, simply because it is just too oppressively hot to bother with the fun of a game of chase. Coyotes are also known as prairie wolves, and primarily eat other mammals, often being active after dark. The traditional coyote call is more often heard during the spring mating season. Coyotes can also be seen at Scotty’s Castle, sometimes wanting food from humans (which leads to habituation, which is not a good thing for animals). Roadrunners are a member of the cuckoo family of birds. Of course, they must not be too cuckoo if they stay one step ahead of coyotes (at least that is what the old cartoon series taught us). They can grow up to two feet in length, and have powerful legs that allow them to run up to 15 miles per hour. Although they can fly, it is rare that they do. Much of their diet is animal in nature, but they do eat vegan sources as well.

CREATURES – POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS: They are out here, but usually we will not see them (but they can see us). A few examples include: scorpions, rattlesnakes, black widow spiders, bees, wasps, and mountain lions. We must watch where we are walking, not go inside old buildings or mines, and if we sit down on a rock for lunch make sure nothing else happens to be sitting nearby also. Usually, these critters will take significant measures to avoid us. We must be aware of our actions and location at all times (if we are not too busy gawking at the remarkable scenery). One more potentially hazardous creature is a mouse or rodent, not because it can directly hurt us, but because the dried droppings can kill us. It is called Hantavirus, is nothing to take lightly, and can be contracted in old abandoned buildings that rodents frequent. It may not seem significant, but people do perish every year from the condition.

CROW INTELLIGENCE: Here’s one for the imagination! Crows, also known as ravens  or blackbirds, are understood to be highly intelligent birds, right up there with wolves and some breeds of dogs. We will find these birds all through the Death Valley country, and just about anywhere else on Earth we care to travel. A YouTube internet video, reportedly filmed at Emigrant Springs Campground in Death Valley National Park, reveals an exceptional event. The video shows a crow on a faucet at the campground. What happens next is something few have likely never witnessed. The bird bends over, turns on the spigot with its beak, takes several drinks of water, and then –get this– turns off the handle! After seeing this short movie, one will be forever convinced that crows are indeed quite intelligent. This video can be accessed on the YouTube website by searching for the presentation called “resourceful animal.” This one is clearly worthwhile to see!

CUCKOO: We may see cuckoos now and then if we stay long enough in Death Valley’s open expanses. If reading this encyclopedia in a linear fashion, then it may be apparent that we are talking about the roadrunner, a bird that prefers ground travel up to 15 miles per hour over air travel. The cuckoo bird is considered good luck by some, and its musical song reportedly inspired Beethoven’s Pastoral Symphony. There is an old Mongolian legend that if an outback traveler of the desert hears a cuckoo’s sound at least twelve times in a row, then the traveler will have good luck for the remainder of the journey.

DESERT TORTOISE: Native to the Mojave and Sonoran Deserts of the American Southwest and northern Mexico, this tortoise (termed gopherus agassizii in the scientific community) can grow over a foot long, six inches in height, and weigh as much as fifteen pounds. Most of its long life is spent underground (up to 95 percent), primarily due to the exceptionally hot temperatures in the region where it lives (ground temperatures may exceed 200 degrees Fahrenheit in Death Valley). This non-threatening creature is a herbivore, and consumes a variety of plant life, including cactus, flowers, and other shrubbery that it can reach. These amazing animals can survive a year or more without water if necessary, as their bladders hold up to forty percent of their bodyweight in water. Living up to 100 years, these animals in Death Valley prefer alluvial fans, washes, and canyons as their habitat, and interestingly, rarely venture outside of a zone comprising an area within two miles of where they were born! They often urinate as a defense mechanism when frightened, so picking one up could deplete precious water stores, especially if it is an unusually dry year. This could lead to its demise by dehydration. Please do not scare or pick up tortoises when visiting the Death Valley territory! Another reason: the Mojave desert tortoise is listed as threatened, with populations having declined as much as 90% since the 1980s. Be alert to desert tortoises while driving any roads in this park.

DEVIL’S HOLE: Few would imagine that so much water could exist in a land that is thought of as waterless by most people. Who would suspect that Death Valley sits atop an aquifer system that spans roughly 40,000 square miles, has been explored to a depth of 400 feet with no bottom in sight, and is home to the endangered pupfish? This natural wonder is off limits to most, and is not even within the normal boundary of what we consider DVNP to be. Northeast of Death Valley Junction in Nevada, we will find the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, and within those boundaries is the tiny portion of Death Valley National Park that protects Devil’s Hole, a geothermal pool. Documentary footage of scuba divers at work in Devil’s Hole is quite spectacular, and most folks would never guess the location from viewing the films. The hole is not without its dangers however, as scuba divers have died while exploring these constricted depths. The pupfish species, which has lived here for over 10,000 years it is believed, is seriously endangered, and biologists are striving to understand the cause of the rapidly diminishing numbers. Current theory holds that lack of nutrients may play a part, as artificial feeding has led to a slight increase in the population, bringing hope to an otherwise dim situation. In 1976, a court ruling actually assigned water rights to Devil’s Hole, restricting agricultural water usage nearby because it was lowering the water level in the massive limestone cavern. The opening of Devil’s Hole at the surface is roughly six by eighteen feet, giving little clue to the seemingly endless liquid paradise that exists underground. Geologists theorize that these subterranean caves were formed over half a million years ago.

EXTREMOPHILE: One word has exemplified the Death Valley territory more than any other over the years, and that word is extreme. This is a very extreme place when one considers the environmental climate conditions found here. Extremophiles are tiny microscopic organisms that thrive in the extreme heat on the floor of Death Valley, existing under and within salt fissures in ground heat exceeding 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The American Heritage Dictionary describes an extremophile as: “n. An organism adapted to living in conditions of extreme temperature, pressure, or chemical concentration, as in highly acidic or salty environments.” Space scientists come here to study them for clues to life on Mars. This is because extremophiles produce evaporites when the water around them evaporates, and these same evaporites have reportedly been discovered on the Red Planet, leading top researchers of the field to postulate that large amounts of water once existed on our neighboring planet. Where there is water, there is usually life. Therefore, extremophiles of Death Valley are playing a very important role, even though they may be invisible to most area visitors.

FISH: To the common suburbanite, after hearing all the horror stories of Death Valley all these years, it might seem strange to have a listing for fish. We have been led to believe by many nineteenth century authors that nothing lived or survived out here, let alone fish swimming around in water. Where there is water, there are usually fish. Here are some of the fish that live in this national park: Amargosa pupfish (found in the Amargosa River, northwest of Saratoga Springs), Saratoga pupfish (found in Saratoga Springs at the extreme southern end of the park), Devils Hole pupfish (found in Devils Hole, which is in Nevada, about 37 miles east of Furnace Creek), Salt Creek pupfish (found in Salt Creek, not far north of Furnace Creek), Cottonball Marsh pupfish (found at Cottonball Marsh on the west side of central Death Valley), and the Western Mosquitofish (introduced into Furnace Creek ponds and irrigation ditches). The Devils Hole pupfish is endangered, and may not be around too much longer if park officials cannot soon find out why it is disappearing. The odd thing is that only this version of the pupfish is endangered, and it has by far the largest water supply of any, an aquifer over 400 feet deep and covering thousands of square miles, while Salt Creek pupfish survive well in the relentless sun in only a couple feet of water with higher salinity than the oceans. Could this be due to toxins of some sort that have unwittingly been introduced through the increasing developments of humans in this region? Nuclear devices have been detonated on and in this ground over the course of several decades. The answers are yet unknown.

FOSSILS: Fossils are any remnants, imprints, or vestige of a living entity from a past geologic era, as petrified wood, fish imprints, or seashells. The study of fossils is done by scientists called paleontologists. Fossils can be up to billions of years old, and usually show parts of an organism that were partially mineralized during its life, such as teeth, bones, or exoskeletons – fleshy tissue is nearly unheard of. If paleontology and fossil hunting are personal interests, Death Valley has excellent options. Here are a few samples, according to the DVNP governmental website (nps.gov/deva) found in the “Geologic Formations” section: “1) Copper Canyon Formation – Miocene Contains basalt, alluvial and lacustrine deposits and vertebrate trace fossils in the lacustrine strata [e.g. camel, horse, bird, carnivore]. 2) Titus Canyon – Eocene: Consists of conglomerates, sandstones, calcareous mudstones, algal limestones, and tuffaceous sandstones, fossil mammals include Protitanops, Mesohippus, Colodon, Teletaceras, Protoreodon, Pambromylus, and Leptomeryx found in red calcareous mudstone in the lower section of this formation. Fundulus and Cyprinodon osteichthyes fish and a number of turtle scutes and rodent teeth and skull have been found. 3) Tin Mountain Limestone – Mississippian: Consists of a lower lagoonal or mudflat limestone. Above this unit is an upper crinoidal limestone, which was deposited on an offshore bar or bank. The upper part of this limestone is highly fossiliferous and characterized by the corals Syringopora and Zaphrentites. Other fossils: foraminifera, coelenterates, solitary/colonial corals, bryozoan, goniatite and orthceroid cephalopods, gastropods, pelecypods, crinoid stems, brachiopods, phillipsid trilobites, an annelid worm, and petrified wood. 4) Ely Springs Dolomite – Ordovician: Lower section is dark gray cherty dolomite and the upper section is light gray dolomite; the base of the lower unit is fossiliferous, consisting of silicified rhynchonellid brachiopods, conodonts, streptelasmid corals, and Halysites. At Lake Hill, the lower unit contains the cephalopod Armenoceras and several species of the brachiopod Lepidocyclus.” Suffice it to say that the list goes on and on, with enough fossil record in Death Valley National Park to fascinate a serious paleontologist for a lifetime. The real trick is finding these ancient creatures, because 3.4 million acres is quite a bit of ground, especially considering that we cannot drive on most of it. Have fun in the search.

FRESHWATER ALGAE: Algae are biologic organisms, usually found in marine environments, that lack a true root system, leaves, and embryos. They can be microscopic single celled organisms, or up to a hundred feet long, such as kelp. In the January 1965 edition of the Ohio Journal of Science, scientist Carole Morgan Brown wrote a paper about freshwater algae found in Death Valley, titled: Freshwater Algae of the Central Death Valley Desert. Here are quoted some of the opening remarks from that manuscript: “Deserts are not often considered suitable habitats for an algal flora. Because of the severe environmental conditions of Death Valley National Monument, California, therefore, it would seem almost impossible to find very many, if any, algae, especially those indigenous to an aquatic habitat. However, in March 1959, I found a substantial bloom of algae, macroscopically identified as belonging to the Zygnemataceae, growing in a swampy area near Eagle Borax Mine (fig. 1). This initial discovery stimulated further trips to that and other areas and the eventual amassment of a representative algal collection.” Carole further went on to say: “It is recognized that a study of this length in no way represents a complete list of the algae of Death Valley. But it is hoped that this report will contribute somewhat to a knowledge of some of the algae to be found in this unique locale, and that it will stimulate further studies of this nature in this and other desert regions.” Later in the 28 page paper, Carole adds these comments: “The ponds and streams of Death Valley are rich in an unexpected flora and fauna. Aquatic insects and snails, and even occasionally fish, are found abundantly, and the basis for their food chain must necessarily be a smaller form of life, usually algae. Algae have existed in Death Valley for millions of years as evidenced by fossils found in limestone beds.” Carole continues: “That many of the algae are relics of the ancient Lake Manly is evident when one studies the diatoms. Biddulphia, generally considered a marine or estuary genus, is one of the more prolific forms in freshwater Travertine Pond. It is possible that it survived the ecological changes and became adapted, probably through mutations, to existence in a new environment.”

HABITUATION: Used in reference to wild animals of a region, this term generally refers to a wild creature that becomes used to a particular stimulus, which then leads to negative results for both the animal and associated humans. For example, in Canada, they have a popular saying that goes, “A fed bear is a dead bear.” This is because if people feed a bear, the bear becomes habituated to the practice, expects it to happen on a regular basis, and then the animal goes seeking the food of humans due to  its association of human = food. The result, unfortunately, is that the bear must be relocated far from people, but since this often is only a stop-gap measure, the bear is in danger of being destroyed to protect people. Basically, this comes down to one very obvious and important rule for us all when in the wilds of nature: Do not feed the animals. A similar story has been told of a bobcat scavenging for food around visitors at Furnace Creek. The animals do not know any better, but we do, so please let’s all do our part in helping our wild friends.

KANGAROO RAT: These little critters reside underground during the hot days, in their little dens, and then come out at night to forage for food, get nesting supplies, and take dust baths, flipping around in a nice little dust bowl. Kangaroo Rats never drink water, as they metabolize sufficient water from the food they eat, through a process called oxidative phosphorylation. They eat seeds, insects, leaves, and buds. They have a long tail, and the reason they are called kangaroo is because they hop around on their hind legs like miniature kangaroos rather than running around on all fours like mice. They must be careful however when they come out at night to run errands, exercise, and play, because the stealthy sidewinder, a venomous rattlesnake, is also nocturnal, and just looking for a plump little kangaroo rat to devour. Extreme vigilance is always a top priority for kangaroo rats.

KIT FOX: This animal is fairly common here in North America, with its range also extending into the northern reaches of Mexico. These small foxes can be spotted by the average Death Valley tourist around campgrounds in the evening, and may be distinguished from other foxes as they have no center stripe on their tails. Its fur is rusty gray in color, and it has a black tip on its tail. Apparently, the fox we see here in the Mojave Desert is technically termed the Desert Kit Fox, a subspecies of the North American Kit Fox. These animals often go hunting after sunset for smaller creatures like jackrabbits, birds, and kangaroo rats.

MAMMALS: From the National Park Service website of Death Valley, here is a list of mammals that exist within the park boundaries: desert shrew, fringed myotis (a myotis is a mouse eared bat), California myotis, small footed myotis, silver haired bat, western pipistrelle (another type of bat), western big eared bat, hoary bat, pallid bat, Brazilian free tailed bat, mountain cottontail, desert cottontail, black tailed jackrabbit, Panamint chipmunk, whitetail antelope squirrel, California ground squirrel, roundtail ground squirrel, Mojave ground squirrel, Panamint pocket gopher, pygmy pocket gopher, great basin pocket mouse, little pocket mouse, long tailed pocket mouse, desert pocket mouse, chisel toothed kangaroo rat, Panamint kangaroo rat, Merriam kangaroo rat, desert kangaroo rat, western harvest mouse, cactus mouse, deer mouse, canon mouse, brush mouse, pinyon mouse, southern grasshopper mouse, desert wood rat, bushy tailed wood rat, house mouse, porcupine, coyote, kit fox, gray fox, ringtail, badger, spotted skunk, mountain lion, bobcat, burro, horse, mule deer, and the desert bighorn sheep. That is a lot of animals to find and see, plenty to keep an enthusiast busy for many years.

MILTON THE MAMMOTH: Between the desert towns of Shoshone and Tecopa, on the eastern fringe of Death Valley National Park, a group of geology students found the fossilized remains of a Columbian mammoth in  1983. This large mammal spent about fifteen years at the Sonoma State University, north of San Francisco, on display for all to see. During the waning days of the twentieth century, the mammoth was disassembled and moved to the small Shoshone Museum in Shoshone, California, where it was reconstructed for display once again. The members of the museum board have affectionately named this stately, and very old, animal Milton. An article in the  April 30, 1999 edition of the Pahrump Valley Times newspaper in Nevada said this of the mammoth: “Scientists believe the Columbian mammoth walked the Earth more than 100,000 years ago, when southern Nevada and eastern California looked more like an African savannah than a desert. Milton is thought to have been a male mammoth, which most likely weighed more than seven tons and died when it was a teenager.” While fueling our vehicles at the Charlie Brown Store in this tiny town, a visit across the street to see Milton might prove a unique highlight for the day.

MOUNTAIN LION: Also known as a cougar, puma, or panther, this huge member of the cat family is found in DVNP, but ranges as far north as Canada’s Yukon and as far south as South America’s Andes Mountains. Cougars stalk their prey, and when the timing is right, ambush their intended meal. Some of its menu items include deer, bighorn sheep, and rodents. It is rare for a mountain lion to interact with humans for any reason, which is good news for hikers of the high country. They can be over two feet high at the shoulders, eight feet long head to tail, and weigh around 160 pounds. Like the bobcat, these predators resemble common house cats, but pumas are about the size of a person. Regardless of what predatory animal we may encounter, remember they are all wild and potentially dangerous. Bottom line? Never sing the “here kitty kitty” song out here!

MULE: “A dumb mule – if there is such a thing – is smarter than the smartest horse.” So proclaimed one prominently quoted source from the days of yore. A mule is a cross between a male donkey and a female horse, and usually is unable to breed itself because a mule has 62 chromosomes, while a horse has 64 – so when we start experimenting with nature, strange outcomes are sure to result. As one might suspect, crossing the two animals to produce a mule also produces a hybrid sound the animal makes – starts with a whinny and ends with a hee haw. People apparently found out somehow (amorous animals cooped up too long in the barnyard?)  that by combining the power, stamina, and patience of a mule, with the vitality and daring of the horse gave them an animal that outperformed either one separately when it came to hauling heavy loads. Mules generally weigh between 600-900 pounds. Considering all this, mules were the animal of choice to pull the heavily laden freighters of the 1800s, such as the twenty mule team, where 18 mules were hitched up in a long line, followed by two large draft horses. The horses were used in the position closest to the first wagon because of their extra bodyweight, which helped handle the tongue of the wagon better.

MULE DEER: We may happen upon these animals if our travels take us into the Panamint, Grapevine, or Cottonwood Mountains (Cottonwoods are part of the northern Panamint Range on the west side of DV, and the Grapevines are part of the northern Amargosa Range on the east side of DV). These deer are called mule because their ears are large like a mule’s ears. They are distinguishable from the Whitetail Deer by the black tip on their tails. These deer do not run as we would see a horse run. They essentially bound or bounce along on all four feet, similar to what we might expect of a gazelle. These animals forage on berries and the twigs of conifers. We will likely never see one of these walking around at Badwater.

ONE-EYED MULE: A small mule with only one good eye, as the story goes, was among four animals purchased at Rancho San Francisquito by John Rogers and William Manly during their attempt to save the stranded Bennett-Arcan wagon train members in Death Valley in 1850. Three pack horses also accompanied the mule, however they perished during the return trip across the desert and over the rugged mountains. Moral of the story? When it comes to long and grueling treks over the land, go for the mule, as a one-eyed mule is still better than a two-eyed horse. Some folks go so far as to claim that the dumbest mule is smarter than the smartest horse, even if the mule only has one good eye.

PACKRAT: Packrats are small mammals indigenous to the western United States and northern Mexico. They are usually smaller than regular rats, and often have a bushy tail. These little critters are active at night, when they search for nesting material. It has been documented that they often trade what they are carrying for something that seems more inviting. Old ghost town structures provide prime habitat for packrats, so we can bet that there are many in the Death Valley region. They live in middens, nests they make from material they collect. Packrat middens can last up to 40,000 years, and allow scientists to study many things from long ago. If we sleep inside an old cabin, their scampering will keep us company until the dawn.

PUPFISH: These little tiny critters are a favorite friend for many visitors in the Death Valley territory. The fish are about 1.5 inches in length, survive from the prehistoric era, and have adapted to water that is both fresh and salty. The Salt Creek pupfish, for example, live just north of Furnace Creek in water that is several times saltier than the oceans (different sources claim anywhere from 2-5 times the salinity). The Saratoga Springs pupfish in the southern end of the park may have life easier because the water is fresher and more voluminous. Salt Creek can nearly dry up during the summer months. Neither population is endangered, however, the Devil’s Hole pupfish population in Nevada is. Their population has reached such a critically low number that park biologists such as Linda Manning fear their extinction if the reason for their decline cannot be soon determined. About an inch long, these miniature creatures are easy to miss. The Salt Creek turnoff has a boardwalk that will take us over the water, making viewing easier if we are here during the early spring. Ancestors of the Salt Creek pupfish originally swam in Lake Manly many thousands of years ago, when the 80 mile long freshwater lake covered the floor of Death Valley to depths of 600 feet or more.

RATTLESNAKE: They are out here, but hard to find (unless we like poking around in cool dark places like old structures or mines). However, here are some things to consider: 99% of rattlesnake bites are not fatal! We can however, take reasonable precautions to avoid meeting one the hard way. If we suspect that these reptiles could inhabit the area where we are: 1) wear high-top boots and long pants, 2) be very vigilant around large rocks with shady areas underneath, bushes, or while exploring old buildings, 3) diligently scan the area where we are walking, and 4) do not ever put our hands where we cannot see. If we spot a rattler, we should immediately leave the area so that it does not feel threatened, and inform others in the group to do likewise. Always carry a modern snake venom extraction kit while hiking. Such a kit can be purchased at better sporting good stores, and it consists of a suction device that requires no invasive action on our bodies, as in the olden days when razor blades were the norm. Recommended is the Sawyer’s Snakebite Kit called “The Extractor” by Saffeta, Incorporated, P.O. box 7036, Long Beach, California, 90807. It uses suction to extract the venom, a pleasant and painless alternative in a bad situation.

ROADRUNNER: Beep-beep! Doubtful they actually articulate to the degree we may think of in the cartoon series, but they are fast birds, cruising along at up to 15 miles per hour at times (especially if they are outrunning a coyote). The term roadrunner also describes a few passionate people with an appetite for the extreme endurance feat. Every summer, a select group of chosen athletes run the roads from Badwater to the Mount Whitney Portal, a grand distance of 135 miles. These roadrunners are not so fast as the ones that keep that pesky coyote at bay (3 mph versus 15 mph), but of course, they are traveling much farther.

SALT CREEK: Just about 5 miles north of Furnace Creek, we will find salty water pools. In these pools, we will find a type of fish not found anywhere else on Earth. At Salt Creek, they have adapted to live in water several times saltier than the ocean. Originally, they lived in a freshwater lake that covered this valley many years ago. These tiny pupfish are quite popular with tourists, but the humble little creatures go on, wholly unaware of their celebrity. While engaged in yearly mating rituals, some of these tiny fish fall victim to hungry birds, but enough survive each season to keep their numbers off the endangered species list. Early spring is a good time to visit.

SARATOGA SPRINGS: In the extreme southern portion of the park, at an elevation of 60 feet above sea level, these springs are influenced by water of the Amargosa River as it heads north into Death Valley. We can see the ponds all year long, and may be lucky enough to see migrating birds using the precious water for drinking, bathing, or just frolicking. As with any water-rich environment, be aware of any animals and respect their nests or habitat. Saratoga Springs consist of several springs that feed water to three large ponds, covering a total area of nearly seven acres. A rare fish called the Saratoga Springs pupfish lives in these waters, and nowhere else on Earth. Other creatures who call this home include Amargosa tryonia snails, Amargosa spring snails, Saratoga Springs belostoma bugs, Amargosa naucorid bugs, Death Valley June beetles, red-spotted toads, and Pacific tree frogs. Birds finding a regional home in these parts include the yellow warbler, the Cooper’s hawk, the western snowy plover, the long-billed curlew, and the long-eared owl. At one time, borax wagons hauled their minerals past these springs. It seems almost out of place to see Saratoga Springs in this barren-appearing country. We will find remnants of old structures here during our explorations, and an easy hiking trail allows us to examine a number of relics. Swimming in Saratoga Springs is prohibited, however, as it is a watering source for area wildlife.

SIDEWINDER: These venomous rattlesnakes have an odd way of getting around compared to others of their species, as they appear to move sideways when traveling, and their sand trail is a series of depressions shaped like the letter J. When they must travel during a hot day where the ground is near 200 degrees, their odd way of locomotion keeps their bodies off the sizzling sands as much as possible. They are not as poisonous as other rattlers, but we would still be well advised to look before we walk or reach. Be especially vigilant around rocky areas while hiking and exploring inside old mining buildings and ghost towns. Even though the venom is weaker, a bite will be an experience we will likely regret (one account describes a minor bite to the finger resulting in violent pain and a swollen arm that felt as though is was being boiled in oil – and this was after receiving an antivenin from a doctor). Sidewinders eat kangaroo rats at night. Oh, one more thing: their coloring blends well with the terrain, so they do a good job of being invisible. Remain vigilant … there’re out here!

TARANTULA: These are long legged and large hairy spiders, and there are probably millions of the within the park boundaries. They eat insects and other small creatures that they find wandering about, after catching them in a secret ambush. Tarantulas have an exoskeleton that supports their muscles. These spiders are found in desert regions worldwide, and also in tropical locales. Some can be as large as 12 inches if counting the length from outstretched legs – the ones we will see out here are more in the range of up to four inches. Tarantulas eat through a mouth that is like a straw, sucking up their food, so any solid food particles must be predigested by an enzymatic liquid that they spray on their victim. These spiders have to shed their exoskeleton in order to grow larger, in a molting process. Word from the scientific community says not to surprise a tarantula because this could cause it to bite, and while bites are apparently not fatal, they can be very painful if we are ones who suffer from an allergic reaction to the venom. It is important to make our presence known, talk to them nicely, and if we do pick one up, make sure our intentions are honorable! The male apparently lives about ten years, and waits to mate until its last year of life, while the female stays the course of existence another ten years, outliving the male by double the time.

TITANOTHERE: Old is the word … very old. In fact, how does 37 million years sound? The titanothere was a two ton quadruped that was up to 18 feet tall, in other words, one very impressive beast! The ancient people referred to this family of mammals as a thunder beast, and along with the brontothere, was part of the Sioux Indian mythological fabric. The head was up to four feet long, and a massive forked horn protruded from its snout. Let’s picture in our minds a rhinoceros of unimaginable proportions, with two horns emitting from one horn base, only the horns on the titanothere were rounded at the ends, according to scientists. The horn was likely used for fighting. This animal fed on branches of trees, and as the forest lands faded, so did the great beast’s ability to thrive and survive here. When these colossal land mammals lived around what is now known as Titanothere Canyon in Death Valley, things looked different, with lush forests, lakes, and a few volcanoes thrown in for added interest. Their range extended through Nevada, California, South Dakota, and North Dakota. So, while titanotheres no longer live in the Death Valley area, we can visit on foot the canyon named after them, and maybe even be lucky enough to find some skeletal remains. If we do, they are protected, so we can look and then report our find to park authorities. In the Death Valley Furnace Creek museum is a replica of a titanothere skull that is on display so that we might imagine this beast.

WILDLIFE: There are many wonderful creatures that make the Death Valley region home. According to the Smithsonian Guides to Natural American, Far West edition, “Close to 400 species breed here, including 290 bird species, 57 mammals, 36 reptiles, 3 amphibians, and 5 species of pupfish.” The majority of these wild animals have adapted to a nocturnal existence to escape the extreme desert heat in summer, although the ones that live in the higher elevations of the surrounding mountains need not have the heat worry. They would have to be more concerned with cold. At the end of the dirt road in Johnson Canyon, we will find an abundance of frogs, birds, and crickets. Bats keep us company after sunset, and a shy burro even chimes in now and then. Up at Mahogany Flat, wild bobcats are known to share our company. There are always surprises in this country! What a grand stage for life to unfold for those fortunate enough to make their way here into this remote and serene world.